I was pretty thrilled last week to hear about four new listings from Greece available through the ANBL Expérience program, all from Florina in Macedonia in northwest Greece, three of which are from the well-respected Alpha Estate. These are relatively pricey wines, but their quality to price ratio is very good, and, if you are a true wine enthusiast, you’ll want to know what these wines are all about. And you’ll want to try them!
Greece has a long history of producing great wines from grapes that are really only known there. Exotically named grapes like the red Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko and Mavrodaphne, and white Assyrtiko, Malagouzia and Moschofilero. Wines are produced on the mainland, but also on the famous Aegean Islands, notably the whites from Santorini. The island of Crete is also renowned for wine. The key mainland regions are Macedonia (notable for Xinomavro wines), Nemea on the Peloponnese Peninsula, and Attica and Thessaly in Central Greece.
From a style standpoint, Greek reds are typically fairly rustic, with firm tannins, and the whites are crisp and mineral driven, with good body and nice floral and stone fruit flavours. They are very much intended to drink with food, although those whites are lovely to just sip on a warm day by the sea.
Alpha Estate is relatively new, founded in 1997, and thus has a very modern winery. In addition to the traditional Greek varieties, they also grow international varieties including Syrah, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Tannat, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer.
Here are my notes on these four exciting new wines.
Akakies Xinomavro Rosé, Kir-Yianni, 2023, Amyndeon, Florina, Greece, $28.30, PC: 5203888120012
This dry rosé made from 100 per cent Xinomavro is bright cherry red, darker than the typical pale pink versions that dominate the shelves. It has a lovely cherry-berry-herb nose and flavour, good weight, and fresh acidity/structure. It reminds me a lot of good Tavel, the famed rosé from Southern Rhône. Grapes are grown on a high elevation plateau with sandy soils. Kir-Yianni was founded in 1997 by a son from the famous Boutari family that dominated the Greek wine business.
Sommelier’s Tip: Serve slightly chilled with cheese and charcuterie, but would also be great with roast chicken or pork.
Alpha Estate Single Vineyard “Turtles” Malagouzia, 2023, Florina, Greece, $33.80 PC: 5205243322079
I remember this white wine from its brief stint at ANBL a few years ago. I loved it then and still do, although the price is much higher now. Still, if you want a fabulous dinner white with good weight, stone/tropical fruit and florality, it is hard to do better than this at this price. It has such full texture, colour and complexity that I assumed it was oak aged, but instead it was made with extended skin contact and lees stirring. It manages to maintain all that fruit and still finish bone dry. Great wine.
Sommelier’s Tip: Don’t serve this too cold or it will lose some of its aromatics and fruit flavours. Great with rich fish or chicken dishes.
Axia Syrah Xinomavro, Alpha Estate, 2021, Florina, Greece, $32.30, PC: 5205243319352
A 50/50 blend, you really notice the Syrah kind of taking over. It is all dark fruit and spice/herbs, although I’m sure the Xino brings some tannins for balance. A year in French oak has contributed even more structure and complexity, but it is not really an oak dominated wine. It is bone dry with a structured finish, although it is starting to show some dried fruit character from its four years of age.
Sommelier’s Tip: Grilled, herbed lamb chops would be perfect. Or maybe lamb souvlaki?
Alpha Estate Single Vineyard “Hedgehog” Xinomavro, 2022, Florina, Greece, $42.31, PC: 5205243320488
Although relatively pale red in colour, don’t be fooled by that. Like Barolo, this wine has ample flavour, complexity and structure. The berry and cherry fruit is delicious, and the tannins are more moderate than I expected, but definitely give good balance. It also sees 12 months in French oak. It is lighter in body than the Axia, but the fruit is fresher and the tannins feel firmer, giving a very dry finish that is very food friendly.
Sommelier’s Tip: Their website recommends barbecued meats, spicy sausages, red baked peppers in olive oil, stewed rabbit, and full bodied cheeses.
Cheers!
Craig
Craig Pinhey is a Sommelier and New Brunswick’s beverage columnist, for over 20 years. Check out his FB page: www.facebook.com/craig.pinhey or follow on Twitter @frogspadca or Instagram @brufrogd