There’s real excitement surrounding the wines of Greece. They barely registered in this country in the 1990s, yet it seems the afterburners have finally been ignited. Not only are we seeing more Greek wines in our supermarkets, but a series of high-profile restaurant openings have shown diners just how sophisticated its fine wines can be. Figures from the importer Hallgarten show that sales of Greek wines in bars and restaurants were up 24 per cent over the past year. A combination of ancient vineyards, more than 300 indigenous grape varieties, some of the most modern wineries in Europe and a clutch of technically astute producers has led to the wines getting better and better every year.
It’s not just the country’s scintillating dry whites, such