Delia Smith has never been backwards coming forwards. Over the years, the nation’s favourite cook has taken aim at modern cuisine, calling it “poncey” and “cheffy”, described vegan diets as “wrong” and lamented the fact that young people “don’t know what a good pork chop is like”.

Now Smith, 83, has French cuisine in her sights, declaring it “very hard” to find a good meal across the Channel.

She said a lot of French dishes were “not even meant to be eaten”, and instead resemble a “fancy smear” on a plate complete with “towers, foams, drizzles and dusts”.

In an interview with Noble Rot magazine she said that French cooking had been in decline since the 1970s and blamed chefs for removing butter, cream and

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