Le Cheval Noir, in The Dark Horse, Commerical Court, Belfast
Le Cheval Noir in The Dark Horse
Whatever happened to the gastropub? Twenty years ago there was a flurry of activity in the pub sector as chefs like Tom Kerridge and Rick Stein chucked out the ploughman’s lunch and pork pie and replaced them with Michelin-compliant duck egg omelettes and lobster rolls.
It was all lovely and very expensive, but it was an indicator of the identity crisis in pubs and restaurants which raises its ugly head from time to time in Britain and then a little while later, over here. No such crisis ever existed in France. You went to a bistro, brasserie, café, bar or restaurant. Old school bouillons were cheap, cheerful and correct — these canteen-like halls were the working person’s go-to where you could buy nutritious, fresh meals for very little (check out Bouillon Republique in Paris). The bouillon is back because of the cost of living and is providing pure and continuous Gallic hustle, bustle and atmos by the shed load. Just be prepared to queue.