The French consumer magazine Que Choisir analyzed 26 bottles of extra virgin olive oil sold in supermarkets. The result is not very encouraging.
7 brands of extra virgin olive oil also sold in Italy
The Champions of extra virgin olive oil analyzed by Que Choisir they include those of 7 brands also available in Italian supermarkets.
The tests physicochemical and organoleptic (performed by panel tests by a jury of accredited experts) made it possible to ascertain the true nature of each sampled extra virgin olive oil.
Oleic acidity, peroxide value, absorbance (oxidation coefficient measured in terms of absorption of UV rays at wavelengths 232 nm, 270 nm), ethyl ester content of fatty acids and wax content, in particular, allow to evaluate the quality of the olives used and the degree of oxidation of the oils.
Other parameters were used to verify the absence of fraud, such as the presence of refined oils (so-called olive oil) or of different botanical origin.
Hunt for contaminants
Analyzes laboratory were also aimed at identifying three types of contaminants:
– pesticides and other agrochemicals (e.g. herbicides, fungicides), through multi-residual analysis on over 600 molecules,
– mineral oils. Present in a great variety of foods, they come from multiple sources of contamination throughout the production chain, from raw material to processing. Also in this case, as already in previous investigations by Eco test, (1) MOSH (saturated hydrocarbons in mineral oils) and MOAH (aromatic hydrocarbons in mineral oils) were investigated, the latter suspected of being carcinogenic,
– plasticizers. The analyzes found about fifteen molecules, including phthalates (including DEHP and DBP, both classified as toxic for reproduction at European level and classified as endocrine disruptors), adipates and compounds belonging to other families of plasticizers. (2)
Disappointing results
Most of the oils examined (16 out of 26 products, equal to 62% of the total) did not pass the test. Although the chemical values were close to legal limits, many products failed the organoleptic test for their rancid taste. A defect also attributable to inappropriate storage or transport conditions.
Among the Italian products and available in Italy, there are three rejected:
1) Classic Bio Carapelli. score 7,5 / 20. Obtained from organic olives with EU and non-EU origin, packaged in a dark glass bottle, it was purchased in France for € 7,80 / l. Downgraded to virgin after tasting for rancid flavor. With an absorbance ‘a little high’, which indicates the beginning of the oxidation of the oil. At least free of contaminants and foreign oils, except for slight traces of mineral oils.
2) Classic Carapelli. Score 7,7 / 20. Unlike the other versions (Vivace, Delicato) it is characterized by a persistent flavor between bitter and slightly spicy. The origin of the olives is EU and non-EU, the bottle in dark glass. Price 7,08 € / l. Downgraded to virgin after tasting for the defect ‘chômé-lies’, a flavor characteristic of oil obtained from piled olives that have undergone an advanced degree of anaerobic fermentation. Free of contaminants and foreign oils, it showed slight traces of mineral oils.
3) Primadonna, distributed by LIDL. Score 7,7 / 20. From olives of Spanish origin, it is packaged in dark plastic bottles. It is among the cheapest products in the test, € 4,99 / l. Downgraded to virgin after tasting for ‘chômé-lies’and a hint of’ damp-earth ‘. Free from contaminants and foreign oils, it shows only traces of mineral oils.
The confirmed extra virgin olive oils, albeit with some flaws
The other 4 brands of extra virgin olive oil available also in Italy have instead received confirmation of the extra virgin quality. Albeit with annotation of some flaws.
4) Auchan. From French olives. The bottle of this extra virgin olive oil, he notes Que Choisir, bears an old label, as it carries the Nutri-Score D, while all olive oils I’m now Nutri-Score C. Packaged in 50 cl dark glass bottles, it costs € 19,98 / l.
It is the best of the test (score 16/20). When tasted, the fruity is of medium intensity, both green and ripe, while the bitter and spicy are light. The low oleic acidity is a sign of good quality of the olives before their pressing. The ethyl esters of fatty acids, markers of fruit fermentation, are in fact very low. The absorbance and peroxide values are also low, a sign of poor oxidation.
However,, Auchan extra virgin olive oil is criticized for the presence of small quantities of pesticide residues suspected of endocrine interference. Mineral oils are present in traces, which are difficult to detect. No trace of plasticizers.
Other non-downgraded oils
5) Carrefour Bio. Score 15,3 / 20. Obtained from a blend of EU and non-EU oils, it is packaged in dark glass bottles. The label refers to the Nutri-Score C. Price 6,35 euro / l. On tasting it reveals one of the most pronounced fruity flavors, of medium intensity and green. The bitter and spicy are well balanced. The absorbance and, to a lesser extent, the peroxide value (indicators of oil oxidation) are above optimal levels but comply with the standards. Free of contaminants.
6) Gold Coast. Score 14,5 / 20. Obtained from 100% Italian olives of which the oil mill – now part of the French giant Avril – guarantees traceability from the fields to the mill, up to the bottling plant. It expresses the vigorous and inimitable taste of olives harvested when ripe, confirming the know-how of the historic oil mill of Spoleto. At the price, in France, of 13,56 € / l.
To the tasting, is a fruity oil of medium intensity. Que Choisir recognizes it as one of the most pronounced fruity oils, among the 26 products analyzed, even if there are oils with an even more intense taste. Two parameters strongly linked to oxidation, the UV absorbance and, to a lesser extent, the peroxide value, are higher than desired.
The judgment on pesticide residues is instead critical since four different molecules have been identified – at very low levels, compared to legal limits – one of which is suspected of reprotoxicity and the other of endocrine interference.
7) Monini Classic. Score 13,4 / 20. From olives with EU origin, it is packaged in dark glass bottles. Price € 8,95 / l. Less appreciated on the palate, the fruity is medium and ripe. Some problems, even here, with contaminants. Small amounts of residues of two pesticides were identified, suspected of being reprotoxic and in one case an endocrine disruptor.
Also present mineral oils in small quantities. According to the laboratory, it is a sign of possible contamination of a technical grade mineral oil (eg lubricating oil).
Marta Strinati
Footnotes
(1) Dario Dongo, Marina De Nobili. Extra virgin olive oil, dangers and defects. The Ökotest investigation. GIFTS (Great Italian Food Trade). 11.6.19/XNUMX/XNUMX, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/sicurezza/olio-extravergine-d-oliva-pericoli-e-difetti-l-inchiesta-di-ökotest
(2) Dario Dongo, Luca Foltran. Phthalates and BPA in the human body. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 9.11.18/XNUMX/XNUMX, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/imballaggi/ftalati-e-bpa-nell-organismo-umano
A professional journalist since January 1995, she has worked for newspapers (Il Messaggero, Paese Sera, La Stampa) and periodicals (NumeroUno, Il Salvagente). She is the author of journalistic studies on food and has published the book “Reading labels to know what we eat”.