Tasty trail in Burgundy
Our tour began in Dijon, beneath the unseasonable drizzle that would become the norm during the course of the summer. After a walking tour of the town centre that included stops in foodie boutiques-Mullot & Petitjean’s 1919 shop is stunning and so is their gingerbread – we headed to the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin, a temple of Burgundian food and wine. Alongside the museum space and immersive wine-tasting experience, the main feature is the food court and innovative wine cellar which attract more locals than tourists and is a great place to grab a bite and people-watch.
Our first night was spent just outside Beaune in the beautiful Ermitage de Corton hotel, whose passionate owner takes those who wish on a vineyard tour in a baby blue 1975-VW bus. We bumped our way around the picturesque Corton hill and enjoyed a fantastic wine-tasting overlooking this unusual site where both red and white grape varieties grow.
A tour of Burgundy would not be complete without mustard, so our next stop brought us to Beaune and the Moutarderie Fallot, a reference in the world of condiments and the last mustard-maker in Burgundy to still use stone mills. Fallot buys its seeds exclusively from Burgundian growers who have worked hard to reignite the local cultivation of mustard flowers. A small word of warning: the factory tour is sensory almost to the extreme. On an overcast day, the smell of mustard is particularly strong and people with sensitive eyes may suffer from stinging and crying – I can attest!
The Vallée de la Gastronomie is not just about eating and drinking. It was time to head out into the vineyards on a cycling tour following the Voie des Vignes, a biking itinerary that takes you right through the vineyards. That day, the winemakers were making the most of a dry spell to work on their vines and we spotted a couple of working horses among the rows. Our cycling tour took us to the wine cellars of a couple of vignerons who kept an eye on the greying clouds as they poured our glasses and grumbled about the high risk of mildew this year. Slightly giddy on the saddles of our electric bicycles, we carried on, swaying through the vineyards of those great Burgundian labels: Meursault, Pommard, Puligny-Montrachet. The words of one winemaker in particular resonated in our minds: “The reason why the cheapest plot of land in Meursault is €1.5m per hectare is not because the Burgundian winemakers are good. It’s because, centuries ago, the Cistercian monks worked tirelessly and crafted the terroir with such passion. It’s the transmission of their knowledge that makes Burgundy wine so fantastic today.” Our cycling tour ended with a perfect lunch at Domaine Leflaive, where we were joined by Julie, who is part of the 19th generation of the family to be involved in the business.