JANUARY, when the echoes of New Year’s resolutions are still ringing in one’s ears, is a good time to visit Miraj Healthy Grill in Williston Park. As the name suggests, this nine-month-old spot serves the kind of food we are supposed to be eating. It features Persian and Mediterranean cuisines, which translate to grilled meats, big salads and vegetable-laden appetizers.
If another resolution calls for spending less money, Miraj fills the bill there as well. There is one entree at $29.95, a combination platter with several meats, but everything else is under $17, and most dishes are closer to $10 than $15. The entrees are huge platters piled high with basmati rice or, if one chooses, grilled vegetables, French fries or salad.
Miraj is a gem, but not an undiscovered one. On both my visits the dining room was packed with large, multigenerational groups; when the main room filled, diners were led to an auxiliary party room. On a recent Sunday, as we left the restaurant at 8 o’clock, there were about a dozen people waiting for tables.
Families fare well here. For the tots, there are chicken fingers, and for the teenagers, a roster of sandwiches (all under $6.50 and served with a side of Mediterranean salad).
Miraj is all about the food. The décor is drab — though there are white tablecloths and cloth napkins — and the service harried. One night it was nearly impossible to flag a waiter to ask for the check; another time entrees arrived before appetizer plates were cleared.
Most starters are around $4, or $10.95 for a platter of any three. Our favorite was the creamy, smoky-flavored baba ghanouj. Eggplant was also featured in a starter of a warm, soothing mash topped with yogurt. We also liked the spinach borani, a slightly spicy mix of sautéed spinach and yogurt, crowned with fried onions and garlic. All were good with the warm pita that comes to the table before you order.
The top salad pick was the Mediterranean chopped salad with feta cheese. Those who want something even lighter can go for the equally good shirazi salad of diced cucumber, tomato, red onion, parsley and seasonings.
Two lamb entrees won our hearts: five juicy grilled-to-order chops, a steal at $14.95, and lamb shanks. The latter starred two big ones in a lush vegetable sauce, served with dill rice. A diner who ordered it said, “I’ve never had better.” Neither have I.
The lamb chop platter with basmati rice.Credit…Kathy Kmonicek for The New York Times
I thought the chicken breast kebab was good till I compared it with the joujeh kebab, marinated chunks of Cornish hen served on the bone. The hen was juicier and more tender.
A favorite one night was cubes of salmon that had been marinated and charbroiled and served with a flavorful, herb-studded green rice. For beef lovers, there’s the kebab kobideh, nicely seasoned cylinders of charbroiled ground beef.
Rice, whether basmati, green or dill, was the best accompaniment to these dishes. French fries were ordinary, and the grilled vegetables were barely charred and nearly raw.
Diners who have been disciplined throughout the meal might want to reward themselves with a homemade dessert. The best was the creamy New York cheesecake. An airy chocolate mousse cake was another winner. Baklava was a good, not-too-sweet version of the classic. Zalubia (also spelled zalabia) and bamieh (fried dough pieces and balls dipped in honey) were very sweet but still had their fans. Skip the ordinary rice pudding and crème caramel (actually a crème brûlée).
Overall, the outstanding food and great prices at Miraj make it easy to overlook the lackluster surroundings and service flaws. The fact that much of the menu leans to healthful fare is a bonus.
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Miraj Healthy Grill
171 Hillside Avenue
Williston Park
(516) 747-3181
mirajhealthygrill.com
WORTH IT
THE SPACE A storefront with carpeting, white tablecloths, beige walls and forgettable art. The restaurant is wheelchair accessible, but the restrooms are not.
THE CROWD Large family groups are the norm.
THE BAR No alcohol is served. You may bring your own wine.
THE BILL Lunch specials are $9.95. Dinner entrees are $4.95 (falafel wrap) to $29.95 (combination platter). Visa, MasterCard and Discover are accepted.
WHAT WE LIKED Mediterranean chopped salad, shirazi salad, sautéed eggplant mash, baba ghanouj, spinach borani, kebab kobideh, lamb shanks, lamb chops, joujeh kebab, salmon, baklava, chocolate mousse cake, cheesecake.
IF YOU GO Open Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Dinner reservations are a must.
RATINGS Don’t Miss, Worth It, O.K., Don’t Bother.