Before Mediterranean cuisine became mainstream in New York City, Nicola Kotsoni was introducing diners to bold Greek flavors and heartfelt hospitality. Since opening her first Manhattan restaurant with husband Steve Tzolis in the late 1970s, her name has become synonymous with culinary innovation and timeless warmth. Over the decades, the duo has co-owned some of the city’s most celebrated and enduring establishments, including:
Traditional French Bistro, La Gauloise (1978)
Moroccan restaurant Chez Es Saada (1982)
Longstanding Tuscan restaurant, Il Cantinori (1983)
Greek restaurant Periyali (1987)
French Moroccan bistro, Bar Six (1994)
The Tonic Restaurant & Bar (1998)
Mediterranean restaurant, Amali (2011)
Bar Room (2013)
And most recently, OPTO (2025), a new Mediterranean-inspired restaurant led by executive chef Alex Tubero
From introducing authentic Greek cuisine and wine to New York’s fine dining scene to pioneering cross-cultural concepts long before it was the norm, Kotsoni has helped shape the city’s culinary identity. With a career that spans almost half a century, her journey is a testament to resilience, passion, and the power of women leading with purpose in industries where their voices were once scarce.
Rooted in her upbringing in a large Greek family, Kotsoni’s approach to hospitality is deeply personal—every meal is a dinner party, and every guest treated like family.
In this exclusive Q&A for FSR and Women in Restaurant Leadership (WiRL), Kotsoni opens up about her early challenges in a male-dominated industry, the pivotal moments that defined her path, and the timeless values that continue to guide her evolving career.
Growing up in a large family in Greece, you’ve said before that hospitality has been ingrained in your DNA. How has your upbringing influenced the dining experience at your restaurants?
Mediterranean food has immensely influenced my restaurants in many ways. It is what I grew up on and the fact is that we grew our own produce between uncles and grandparents (fresh fish, vegetables, olive oil, fruits) so the freshness aspect of dining in my restaurants is of extreme importance. My father enjoyed fishing daily, so I grew up on fresh seafood and always encourage that in my businesses.
Your career in the restaurant industry spans over four decades. Looking back, what were some of the pivotal moments that shaped your journey as a restaurateur in New York City?
Starting out, I did not plan on staying in the business as long as I did; it just happened organically, and I have been learning new things every single day throughout my career, even at my ripe age today.
One night in the early days of Periyali’s opening, we had four customers for dinner and unannounced we got six people walk in, which ended up being The New York Times food critics Craig Claiborne, Mimi Sheraton, Bryan Miller, and Marian Burros. That night, I got a phone call from Bryan Miller wanting to know more details on Periyali’s opening. He ended up writing about us in his column raving about the dinner they had, and from then on, we ended up doing 200 covers a night. It was packed. Something similar happened at Il Cantinori except it was Craig Claiborne, Marian Burros and James Beard who came for lunch, and soon we were given a great review as well for Il Cantinori.
As a woman in a predominantly male-driven industry, what were some of the key challenges you faced in the early days, and how did you overcome them?
When I started working in the restaurant business, I was 27 and would get asked all the time who my father or my husband was because they assumed there were always men behind me supporting me in my businesses. I overcame this, however by staying focused on growing my businesses to a point where people eventually stopped asking me about the men involved and began to respect me as a business owner in my own right.
In 1988, you hosted a groundbreaking Greek wine tasting at Periyali, which was featured in The New York Times. How did that moment impact the perception of Greek cuisine and wines in New York City?
Periyali was the first Greek fine-dining restaurant in the U.S., so I think that introducing elevated Greek cuisine in the U.S. and hosting The New York Times for a Greek wine tasting helped put Greek cuisine on the map, helping the public see that Greek cuisine is worthy of being celebrated as much as any other cuisine. I like to think of Steve and myself as having paved the way for other the Greek food and wine industry in the U.S.
You’ve said that running a restaurant is like hosting a dinner party every night. How do you ensure that each guest feels this personal touch across your different concepts?
When I am unable to be present at one of my restaurants, I depend fully on each one of my employees- managers, servers, and chefs, that they will pay a great deal of attention to small details before starting service every night.
What are some unique hospitality practices that you have implemented to create a warm and inviting atmosphere in your restaurants?
Attention to small detail, cleanliness, lighting, and most of all, flowers!
Looking ahead, what legacy do you hope to leave for future generations of women in the restaurant industry?
I have always stayed understated so there are many details of my involvement that are not visible to the public. I feel that women give a very special touch to the hospitality industry. In my very ripe age today, my latest restaurant opening is OPTO, which has taught me many new things.
I have always kept my core values in hospitality (excellent quality food and service), but I am always flexible and open to new ideas.