We all have our quirks when it comes to cooking. I have clear mental blocks over what is and is not a complicated supper, many of which do not follow any kind of logic. I wouldn’t think twice about setting a sauce or ragu going early in the day, blipping gently, returning to it every so often for a stir and a taste, knowing that it will take hours and not inconsiderable attention before it is ready. I don’t mind at all making dough which will need proving and shaping as the afternoon wanes. I even find the act of slicing or chopping various different components meditative.

The result is neat little parcels of golden-brown crunchy breadcrumbs encasing chicken, cheese and ham

But there are processes that set off klaxons in my head: warning, warning, avoid. I don’t mind parboiling potatoes and roasting them, but boiling and mashing them goes against everything I believe in for a quick weeknight supper.

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