Lapin and Ragu both opened in the harbourside over the weekend
17:08, 05 Apr 2025Updated 08:38, 06 Apr 2025
Inside Ragu restaurant at Wapping Wharf(Image: PAUL GILLIS / Reach PLC)
Forget the bright red £30m super yacht moored in the Floating Harbour – the real talking point for many over a sun-drenched weekend in Bristol’s harbourside was the launch of two shiny new Wapping Wharf restaurants.
Housed in converted shipping containers at Cargo 2, just behind the MShed, Lapin and Ragu both opened with a bang and they were fully booked as soon as the doors opened.
But then these two new openings have well known teams behind them and their success seems almost inevitable, even in these challenging times for hospitality businesses.
Lapin is a French restaurant from the owners of award-winning Bank restaurant in Totterdown and Italian-inspired Ragu is the second venture from the family behind the much-loved Bedminster restaurant Cor.
Over the course of a belt-straining 24 hours, I ate at both restaurants and both certainly lived up to expectation.
At Lapin, head chef Jack Briggs-Horan and co-owner Dan Regan have created a menu that puts a contemporary spin on French classics served to diners sitting on wicker weave brasserie chairs at marble topped tables.
On the main menu, there’s rabbit rillettes, pig’s head salad, lobster bisque, confit duck leg, mussels with fennel and cider cream sauce and eclair Suzette.
I went for the good value (£29 for three courses) prix fixe lunch menu, kicking off with a generous slice of ham hock terrine that was a well made mosaic of pig and parsley with a mustardy sauce gribiche with plenty of finely chopped hard-boiled egg. Delicious.
It was followed by a steak frites – a thick piece of medium-rare meat covered with a green peppercorn-studded sauce and a heap of hot and salty fries.
Steak frites at Lapin in Wapping Wharf
To finish, a rich and bitter St Emilion au chocolat provided a proper French bistro finale – ooh la la!
A few paces along the upper deck at Cargo 2, Ragu also has covered outdoor seating and an open kitchen in the compact the dining room.
Owners Mark and Karen Chapman have given the former Tare Bistro a gentle makeover with a Terrazzo floor, trailing plants and new tiles along the counter where some diners can eat with full view of the chefs in action.
In the same way that Lapin focusses on modern French cooking, Ragu looks at classic Italian dishes through a contemporary lens and head chef Vyckie Colsell has pulled out all the stops.
There are pasta dishes including tagliolini with Cornish cockles, anchovy, chilli and pangritata (£19.90) and a huge 500g Florentine T-bone steak with heritage tomatoes, wild rocket and Parmesan to share (£59.90).
Inspired by Sicilian street food, a starter of crocchè (£7.50 for two) comprised of melt-in-the-mouth breadcrumbed balls of mashed potato and fontina cheese topped with a flurry of grated Parmesan.
Cornish cuttlefish, chilli, garlic and Amalfi lemon at Ragu in Cargo2, Wapping Wharf
A warm salad of tender Cornish cuttlefish (£14.90) spiked with red chilli, chopped garlic and a squeeze of Amalfi lemon was Italian coastal holidays on a plate.
A thick wheel of crisp and tender lamb shoulder (£17.90) was accompanied by a fresh and summery pea ragu, punchy salsa verde and pecorino.
Blood orange and Campari sorbet (£3.50) with slices of blood orange was a light and refreshing way to round things off.
Despite visiting both places on their first day of opening, Lapin and Ragu felt as if they’d been open years, which is testament to the hard yards put in by the experienced owners at their other restaurants.
At a time when more restaurants seem to be closing than opening, one new top drawer Bristol launch would be welcome enough but for two to open on the same weekend is nothing short of remarkable.
Lapin and Ragu are both located at Cargo 2, Museum Street, behind the MShed.