Rows of newly planted Pinot Noir in Sta. Rita Hills in Spring.
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As many of California’s wines continue to grow in opulence and power, the small AVA of Sta. Rita Hills in the Santa Ynez Valley stands out as a beacon of freshness and elegance. Located just 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean and about 40 minutes from Santa Barbara, the area has become a champion of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
While the region has earned plenty of recognition for its restrained, terroir-driven wines, it could well be set for another surge in demand. With the price of Burgundy now unaffordable to many, a scenario likely to be compounded by trade tariffs, American coastal appellations such as Sta. Rita Hills are set to benefit.
The AVA was granted official status in 2001, but vineyards have been planted here since the early 1970s, when the Firestone family converted part of a vast cattle ranch to grape cultivation and subsequently opened a commercial winery. Richard Sanford and Michael Benedict also spotted the potential for viticulture, planting the now-legendary Sanford & Benedict Vineyard in 1971. There were others, too. Zaca Mesa Winery put down roots in 1973 and became the first in the region to plant Syrah in 1978. Fifty years on from those early investments, Sta. Rita Hills has evolved into an important part of California’s wine reputation.
The defining characteristic of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA is its unusual east-west orientation. Unlike much of California’s coastal range, which runs north to south, the Purisima Hills and Santa Rosa Hills form a channel that allows the full force of the Pacific Ocean’s marine layer and ocean breezes to traverse the valley corridors.
“The Sta. Rita Hills is a unique sort of cool-climate area, which features cool temperatures but also intense sunshine buffered by wind and frequent marine layer activity,” explains Brandon Sparks-Gillis of Dragonette Cellars. “This creates an incredibly long growing season; in many years, we have bud break in late March and don’t complete harvest until October – a full six-month-long season.”
Vines in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, California
Bottle Branding / Jeremy Ball
It is this elongated growing period, along with the persistent influence of the ocean, that helps Sta. Rita Hills stand apart from other California AVAs. Unlike famous Napa Valley to the north, or even nearby Santa Maria Valley, this part of Santa Barbara County remains significantly cooler throughout the year, limiting sugar accumulation while allowing for full phenolic ripeness.
Along with its climate, Sta. Rita Hills benefits from one of the most distinctive soil compositions in California. The region’s foundation is marine-derived, reflecting an ancient seabed that once covered the area. Winemakers frequently point to the diatomaceous earth deposits – stark white, silica-rich rock formed from microscopic algae – as a defining feature.
“These thin soils create a viticultural challenge as vines struggle to uptake nutrients,” says Sparks-Gillis. “Yet this also results in tiny berries with intense flavor and very strong acidity – ideal for top-quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.”
Ernst Storm, another leading winemaker in the region, adds “most of the soils here are ocean-derived. There is marine sand and sediment, river wash, and alluvium, with pockets of soft, crumbly earth and clay. Soil diversity from east to west is huge, and this gives us a broad range of wine styles.”
At Presqu’ile, where sandy soils dominate, this translates into wines of elegance and restraint. “Generally speaking, it’s a relatively cool site on the most western edge of the AVA,” says winemaker and cool-climate Pinot Noir specialist, Dieter Cronje. “This means low crop loads and very elegant wines with beautiful natural acidity.”
A view of the vineyards of Sta. Rita Hills AVA.
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While the soils vary across the region, the common denominator is that they force vines to work harder, producing lower yields but more concentrated fruit. The combination of climate and soil results in wines that diverge sharply from the richer, riper styles often associated with California.
“The long growing season in the Sta. Rita Hills offers the potential for a wide range of wine styles, even from the same vineyard,” says Sparks-Gillis. “That said, the overall climatic dynamic tends to bring a unique combination of structural intensity and graceful textures.”
For Chardonnay, this means ripeness without the flabbiness that often undermines warm-climate expressions. “In Chardonnay, this presents as phenolic textural power alongside brilliant acidity,” he notes. “In Pinot Noir, the Sta. Rita Hills signature often shows dark color, firm-but-fine tannin, with subtle body and texture.”
Bob Davids, who created cult producer Sea Smoke, underscores the importance of climate in shaping these characteristics. “Pinot is the most finicky of grape varieties – it likes cool!” he says. “The AVA is in an east-west canyon next to an ocean, which provides cool temperatures at 36 degrees north latitude. These East-West mountains make this canyon unique on the planet, cooling the area significantly.”
Laura Hughes of Lou Bud Wines, known for producing sparkling wines in Sta. Rita Hills AVA.
Laura Hughes
The freshness and balance also make the region particularly well-suited for sparkling wine. “The Sta. Rita Hills yields pristine, saline, and spice-driven sparkling wines from Pinot Noir that sometimes flirt with savory aromatics – fennel, anise, ginger, and white pepper,” says Laura Hughes of Lou Bud Wines. “Our sparklings have naturally complex textures without being heavy. The acidity here is laser-focused, creating balance in the wines.”
Beyond the region’s natural advantages, the Sta. Rita Hills benefits from a tightly knit winemaking community that prioritizes quality over volume. “The area was pioneered by a group of small, family-run vineyards and wineries,” says Sparks-Gillis. “This created a very tight community from the start, and that strong sense of collaboration still exists today.” Undoubtedly, that collective spirit results in continued improvements in farming practices, and a very high level of average wine quality across the AVA.
That focus on farming is something Davids has observed over nearly three decades in the region. “The wine is made in the vineyard, not the chateau,” he recalls hearing from Burgundy legend Jean-Claude Ramonet. “He is so right! It’s the site. Making a vineyard takes decades. At La Tâche, vines that are less than 25 years old aren’t used in the ‘Grand Vin.’ This year, Sea Smoke is on its 26th leaf. I guess we can start our Grand Vin now.”
While the region has proven itself on a global stage, the future presents both opportunities and challenges. Winemakers are increasingly concerned about rising temperatures and water availability. “This is inevitably a reality winemakers will have to deal with,” says Cronje. “My main concern is that our stylistic decisions will need to be adjusted due to higher temperatures. The need for water and robust irrigation systems will increase, which could be a problem depending on water sources.”
At the same time, the AVA is attracting new investment, with established producers looking to expand, despite the general economic climate. “All the great wines and vineyards in Sta. Rita inspired us to look for a property in that area,” says Cronje. “We got lucky to find a spot on Santa Rosa Road just to the east of Sanford & Benedict.” Meanwhile, Constellation brands acquired Sea Smoke in 2024.
Winemaker Ernst Storm in the vineyards.
Ernst Storm
With 2,700 hectares now under vine and new plantings on the horizon, Sta. Rita Hills is evolving. “You have a great amount of new and old producers making better and better wines, building up the track record,” says Storm. “On a global scale, Sta. Rita Hills wines are making a lot of noise.”
With its combination of climate, soil, and dedicated winemakers, Sta. Rita Hills is at a fascinating crossroads. The AVA already commands respect among sommeliers and collectors, but as European alternatives face challenges in the U.S. market, and American palates shift toward freshness, its reputation could soon reach another level.
For now, the winemakers remain focused on their craft, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in one of California’s most exciting wine regions. Reflecting on his journey with Sea Smoke, Davids said. “It’s been 27 years. Quite a ride. We just kept quiet and reached for perfection at all costs.” He takes a modest pause – “Still reaching!”