A new Garden Oaks neighborhood restaurant and bar has already garnered positive word of mouth after quietly opening this month at 963 Judiway. BeauSoleil is an approachable, casual concept from executive chef-owner Zachary Ross McClendon and his wife Briana, which offers comforting French and American cuisine in a humble, cozy environment with fine dining at heart.
BeauSoleil head chef David Colby and executive chef-owner Zachary Ross McClendon. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
If McClendon’s name sounds familiar, it’s because he’s been a fixture in the Houston hospitality scene for years. He’s the executive chef-partner at Cottonwood, founder of the Elements HTX steak night pop-up (which you can find at bars across Houston) and has over 20 years of experience working in restaurants, including under lauded cuisiniers such as former Tony’s executive chef Olivier Ciesielski at the late L’Olivier restaurant in Montrose. (McClendon and I were both part of the opening team.)
The opening menu at BeauSoleil, which translates to “beautiful sun,” focuses on pared down French specialties with Cajun flare served with Texas hospitality. “The aroma of butter and garlic, the delicate sizzle of seafood hitting a hot pan — these are the scents that now define BeauSoleil,” McClendon waxes poetically.
BeauSoleil’s seared foie gras. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
To run the day-to-day kitchen operations, McClendon has brought on head chef David Colby, a graduate of the Chef John Folse Culinary Institute at Nicholls State University in Thibodaux, Louisiana. Much like McClendon, Colby knew he wanted to be a chef from a young age. His father even encouraged him to work part-time at Hugo’s at the age of 17 to begin learning the profession. After university, he would return to Houston where he would work in restaurants including chef Hugo Ortega‘s Backstreet Café, chef Lyle Bento’s Southern Goods and as an operator of his own concepts, Pop & Pan and Houston Panini & Provisions — which sadly did not survive the shutdowns in 2020 — as well as the Houston’s Tiny Smokehouse barbecue pop-up.
The starters section of the menu includes classics such as Burgundy escargot baked in garlic-parsley butter with Parmesan, seared foie gras served with a cassis reduction and blackberry compote over toasted brioche, Baked Oysters de BeauSoleil topped with bubbly Parmesan and lemon butter, crispy prosciutto, spinach and garlic, and steamed Prince Edward Island mussels cooked with garlic, chorizo, butter, sun dried tomato, white wine and fresh herbs with extra broth poured tableside. Guests can also indulge in a daily selection of East Coast oysters on the half shell or nibble on cheese and charcuterie.
BeauSoleil’s steamed Prince Edward Island mussels are an early favorite. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
Considering McClendon’s pedigree for working with fine steaks, you’d be well off splurging on BeauSoleil’s koji-aged 16-ounce Wagyu ribeye or 6-ounce filet served with rich, buttery pommes purée and haricot verts. I went with half rack of lamb on McClendon’s suggestion. It’s straightforward, unfussy deliciousness with very little gaminess. The sous vide Australian lamb is well-seasoned and served with a simple jus but it was so finger-lickin’ good I wanted to roll up my sleeves and gnaw on the bones like a hungry hound.
Other entrée options include duck confit with candied kumquats and orange sauce, Spanish oyster pasta and fresh fish including pan-seared dover sole and market catch of the day à la meunière.
Half rack of sous vide Australian lamb at BeauSoleil. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
Meanwhile, bar manager Michael DiSario has introduced a signature cocktail menu filled with springtime refreshers and riffs on New Orleans staples. Some of the most popular thus far include the Instant Classic, a quenching patio-pounder built with lemon vodka, lavender, lemon and Topo Chico, Soleil Sacré with Reposado Tequila, mezcal, apricot, Benedictine and grapefruit bitters and Creole Fashioned with Old Forester Rye and Bourbon, Grand Marnier, turbinado sugar and Peychaud’s Bitters. There’s also more adventurous offerings such as a milk-washed Vieux Carré and an unctuous beef tallow-washed Beefeater gin martini garnished with beef jerky.
DiSario is already busy working on new additions like the Cafe Noir, an old fashioned-meets-carajilo mashup up with Old Forester Bourbon, Liquor 43, Mr Black Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur, cold brew concentrate and both Angostura and coffee bitters.
The wine list is a work in progress and at the moment only includes ubiquitous big box brands. Go for cocktails.
The bar at BeauSoleil and bar manager Michael DiSario. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
McClendon has told me he is extremely grateful that the public response so far has been well-received. Patrons seem taken with the flavorful fare delivered in modest trappings without the stuffiness of a high end French bistro. This may be due to the restaurant’s similarities with your friendly neighborhood bar. From branded bar supplies to the general layout — which includes intimate seating, a matchbox kitchen and three 60-inch TVs inside and two on the covered patio deck.
It has a warm, unpretentious familiarity that I suspect will bring in locals and hospitality industry regulars alike. As I looked around, customers and staff alike were all smiles and eager to dole out congratulations. I felt right at home posted up at the bar watching Business Insider specials on the history of ceylon cinnamon and culinary mushrooms in between conversation with the bar team.
While an exact date hasn’t been worked out just yet, McClendon informed me that a grand opening celebration announcement is on the way in the next couple weeks. Follow the restaurant’s Instagram and Facebook pages for updates.
The dining area inside BeauSoleil. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
BeauSoleil is open Tuesday through Thursday from 4 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 3 p.m. to midnight and Sunday from 3 to 9 p.m.
Mario-Sebastian Berry is a wine and spirits vendor who has been in the hospitality industry since 2002. Currently, he represents Blanco, Texas-based Andalusia Whiskey Co. and multiple wine labels. Somehow, he also finds time to be Houston Food Finder’s associate editor and social media manager.
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