It’s a brief moment of serenity as it turns out because whitewashed, blue-domed Santorini – far too picturesque for its own good – is overrun with tourists squeezing through Oia’s narrow alleyways and past donkeys put to work in the oven-like heat (our guide urges us not to ride them and instead take the cable car to reach our ride back to the ship at the end of the day).
Breakfast with a sea breeze on Oceania.
More enjoyable is visiting Boutari Winery, where we sample the well-regarded white wines and learn about the island’s unusual grape cultivation method called kouloura, in which vines are pruned and curled into a “basket” on top of the dry volcanic soil. The vines not only absorb humidity from overnight fog but protect the cradled fruit from harsh sunlight and the Aegean’s fierce seasonal Meltemi winds.
On Mykonos, I skip the crowds to board a ferry bound for Delos – a rocky islet once considered the “greatest commercial centre of the whole world”, as well as the birthplace of twin gods Apollo and Artemis. Although Delos was looted and gradually abandoned, it’s now World Heritage-listed thanks to archaeological riches such as intricate mosaic pavements and the Terrace of the Lions.
The ancient terrace of the lions at Delos island in Greece.Credit: Getty Images
Between hopping around Greek and Turkish ports and islands, discovering another favourite ship nook (Baristas, a tiny coffee shop with a perch overlooking the pool), I get to know Hersh, who has lived in New Zealand for the past two decades.
At Turkey’s Kusadasi, she leads a “country casual” foodie excursion that takes us to a charming mansion-hotel, Kirazli Sultan Konak, to try our hand at making manti (perhaps the world’s tiniest meat-filled dumplings) and sarma (stuffed vine leaves) that we then enjoy for lunch.
Hersh isn’t scheduled to present her talk, “She Called Me Dearie”, on this particular cruise, but an unexpected port cancellation (another time, Chios) and a day at sea means passengers who don’t want to play giant jenga or make bracelets can listen to her rollicking tale of how she secured that dream gig with Child.
When it comes to audience questions, the first one, unsurprisingly, is about that movie, and Hersh pulls no punches when dishing the dirt on Julie Powell, the blogger who detailed her efforts over a year to recreate recipes from Child’s co-authored classic cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Instead of “adorable” Amy Adams being cast as Powell, Hersh says that perhaps Glenn Close – from her 101 Dalmatians/Cruella de Vil era – would have been more apt for the role (Powell died in 2022 aged 49).
Learn chefs’ kitchen secrets.Credit:
It’s juicy stuff – and Hersh, who would make the perfect dinner-party guest with her delicious anecdotes, also explains why Child never publicly discussed Powell after reading one of her sharp-tongued blog posts. It’s a different story with Jacques Pepin, Child’s co-star in the spin-off series, Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home.
“They adored each other,” says Hersh, who recalls the pair’s light-hearted banter about how Child always wanted to use ground white pepper on dishes because she “had this thing about flecks in her food” while Pepin preferred the flavour of black pepper. And with that, Hersh sails off-stage to prepare for a class. Bon voyage and, as Julia would say, bon appetit.
Three Eastern Med must-dos
Loading
Bozcaada
Charming Bozcaada, a port on a Turkish island of the same name, is so delightful it’s worth seeking an itinerary that includes it (such as Oceania’s 14-day Istanbul to Valletta cruise aboard Nautica in September). Find an oceanfront deckchair perched mere steps from the water or wander the pretty cobblestone streets lined with whitewashed houses, trellises and flowerpots.
Rhodes
With the World Heritage-listed Old Town so close to the port and offering so many sights, including soaring city walls and the Palace of the Grand Master fortress, it would be easy to skip an excursion. However, the Traditional Inland Villages tour includes visiting a women’s co-operative bakery that’s reviving old-fashioned recipes. Sample the melekouni – a sweet traditionally served to guests at weddings and christenings – made from aromatic thyme honey, sesame seeds, almonds and spices.
Istanbul
Allocate extra days before or after your cruise to explore this buzzy city at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. Docking at Galataport, the newish cruise terminal, puts you mere steps from one of the city’s best hammams and the neighbouring contemporary art museum, Istanbul Modern. See kilicalipasahamami.com, istanbulmodern.org
The details
Cruise
Culinary Centres are aboard Oceania’s purpose-built “foodie ships” Riviera, Marina and Vista, and will be a feature of Allura, Oceania’s eighth ship, which will set sail on its maiden voyage in Europe in July. See oceaniacruises.com
Cook
Oceania’s program of 100-plus cooking classes includes new additions such as Pacific Northwest-inspired fish and seafood fundamentals, a dessert and drinks class that might pair lava cake with bubbles or crepes Suzette with a Grand Marnier spritzer, and a hearty brunch inspired by the chill of “snow days”.
Sail
Oceania offers a wide range of itineraries, with Vista and Nautica sailing the Mediterranean in 2025. Riviera, which was refurbished in 2022, is cruising Alaska and Asia this year before making its maiden call into Sydney in December.
The writer was a guest of Oceania Cruises.