This is my first outdoor garden. I started most things from seed (except berries, a few herbs, broccoli/cauliflower, and some flowers). I know I overplanted, but I’m learning as I go.
I transplanted everything March 15 after 2.5 weeks of hardening off. Soil is a mix of Black Kow, StaGreen garden soil, peat moss, mulch, and leaves/wood from around the yard. Beds get 2–4 hrs of dappled morning/evening light and 6–8 hrs of intense direct sun. I water every evening.
Since transplanting, many leaves turned reddish-purple, bleached, or curled brown. Broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage got worms. Neem oil helped, but it rained 5 days straight after I sprayed. My once-thriving blackberry bush dried up, and my blueberry leaves have brown spots.
Growth has stalled or died back in many plants. I’ve bought 60% shade fabric, Alaska fish fertilizer, bone meal, blood meal, Miracle-Gro, and a cheap irrigation system (on the way). I also leave wolf spiders alone in hopes they will help with pests.
What could be going wrong? Should I fertilize? Am I doing okay for a beginner?
by LittleDogLover113
14 Comments
i don’t see much struggling. Covering the soil with straw mulch will help retain water! They need extra water support through this transition time. Some may not make it.
They’re getting used to the new conditions they are under. I’m assuming they came from indoors. It looks good, the rain has stalled growth since it got too wet more than likely, let the soil dry down and I think you’ll be ok, the leaf holes are from pests but it doesn’t look too serious.
personally, I’d say it’s your lack of organization. Those poor plants don’t know whether they’re coming or going… Looks great amigo! Have a great season.
Hey fellow 9A!
Growth usually stalls after transplanting, I’d lay off of all the fertilizer and let them get their land legs. they’re perhaps conserving energy, or focusing on growing roots (which you can’t see) before growing leaves, the stuff you can see. be the cool friend that lets them settle in to their new place 😎
all you gotta do is make sure they’re hydrated (2 inches down into the soil it’s damp/moist), and just let them be. if it’s rained, wait a couple days to water. a little struggle makes them much stronger for the year ahead.
if leaves and stems start turning colors or falling off, get back to us, and we can talk fertilizer a little better. net the things that are prone to pests.
Everything is so close together, the tomatoes are normally planted horizontally to promote root growth. Also, blackberries are like an alien spine that grows ugly, long, and doesn’t play nice. The spinach will be fine, just give it time. Cucumbers are my always direct seed, they have zero fight once their roots get messed with. I always remind people with dogs that lavender is extremely toxic for pets. I’m trying to fruit cactus for the first time, super excited. Go down to tractor supply and get some straw mulch.
A few pointers that may help:
-My brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower,etc..) get worked over by worms if I don’t cover them. I made a simple frame with 1/2” pvc and laid bug net over the top. Problem solved.
-I always find my plants tend to stall a bit when they first go in the ground, even if they’ve been hardened off well. No need to panic.
-I would go easy on the fertilizer for the first few weeks and let them adjust. Fertilizer can cause more problems than it solves sometimes.
-looks good so far. Remember that gardening is full of surprises and experimentation. Even experienced gardeners will fail at some things some times
Don’t worry too much! Growth or progress can take some time to take effect after transplanting. From what I can see, most are doing okay and perhaps you can update with a new post in 1 week. We will see how it is going and what can we recommend if there are any issues.
Hi there, if you’re watering every evening, that may be your issue. I’m in 9B, and it’s not even hot enough here yet, to be watering so frequently, so you shouldn’t be there either. Let you soil dry out about an inch, thne try watering in the morning, the next time you water. Morning watering gives your soil a chance to dry out during the day, evening watering causes your plants to sleep with wet feet, especially now while it’s not extremely hot. I evening water only during really hot days, and when I know I won’t be available to water the next morning, even then I skip a day to make sure I’m not leaving my soil too wet overnight.
Your garden looks great, btw!
Awww how wonderful to have a first garden! Good for you!!. You will learn as you go, and things will get better. Transplant shock is a thing, and the plants should be ok, and start taking off soon. It often takes a wee bit of time for plants to get going. You will have to thin the tomatoes a little, but hey its new to you, and you will learn as you go! I can see some fruit trees in your future hehe.
Such a beautiful garden you have set up. Mine is set up with oldcastle blocks as well.
I found after transplanting if I put a bit of shade cloth suspended over the fragile plant, it alleviates the sun overheating or bleaching out the new plant that’s in shock.
I have a small shade screen about 3′ x 2′ that I move around suspended on metal stakes. My romaine lettuce wilted in strong sunlight on warm days, that’s when I started partially shading it.
You will learn by trial and error but it’s a fun and challenging process.
Being in the same zone as you, you will find that some plants love the heat and others will bolt immediately and are only viable as a winter crop.
I attempt to grow something new every season. Some success and some major errors, but always learning to do better next time.
How much sunlight are you getting ?
9A Texas? I’m in 9b Texas (used to be 9a before the recent map update)
Did you follow a local to you or nearby county vegetable planting calendar? Many Texas counties have an agricultural extension agency with planting calendars online.
My county calendar, Brazoria(9a and 9b), has broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage transplants going in no later than mid February for cabbage and cauliflower and late February for broccoli. All those vegetables do great planted out in the fall, October is prime time for transplants going into the beds. The pest issues for brassicas go way down in the fall and winter and all of them thrive in cooler weather.
Mid March is pretty good timing in zone 9 Texas to transplant Tomatoes, Eggplant, Peppers, Melons, Cucumbers, and Squash, although squash vine borers will wreck most types other than Butternut. Cucumbers, Melons and Squash can be direct seeded as well. Mid March works for direct seeding bush beans and especially southern peas.
If it were me, I’d likely abandon efforts to make the broccoli and other brassicas work as being timed too late to have a reasonable chance at a harvest. Forget about doing anything that thrives in cooler weather. Our sun is too intense and heat comes too early. Cool weather crops work so much better planted in the fall in zone 9 Texas.
Focus on caring for the warm weather vegetables. Eggplant is the most heat tolerant along with hot peppers and some sweet peppers, tomatoes should set fruit between now and June.
Direct seed okra, soithern peas, or peanuts into areas where the brassicas are now if you do decide to abandon those cool/mild weather lovers.
Timing is everything and zone 9 Texas has its own unique timing for vegetables.
Some of the plants look like something has been eating on them. Make sure you don’t have any critters or bugs munching on them. Other than that just give them some time. Don’t over water or under water them. Straw is definitely good for retaing water
*cries in zone 5….