A dish for the holidays, sweet and sour beet risotto
Chef Jacques Qualin at the J&G Steakhouse at the Phoenician in Scottsdale, talks about a great dish for the holidays, sweet and sour beet risotto.
David Wallace/azcentral.com
If there’s a time of year to pull out all the stops, it’s winter’s holiday season.
You spend hours decorating the house, dollars on gifts — all in an effort to make friends and family feel aglow. That sparkle should carry over to the kitchen, too. Luckily, there’s a fancy French chef who can help.
Chef Jacques Qualin is chef de cuisine at J&G Steakhouse at The Phoenician. He was Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first sous chef at his signature Jean Georges restaurant. The bright stars that lit Qualin’s path to Phoenix are Michelin-hued.
Plating elegance is just what he does. “For me, it’s like breathing,” Qualin said.
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But years in fine-dining establishments aren’t prerequisites to serve an impressive holiday meal, he added. All you need is knowledge and the willingness to challenge yourself.
“I can see how it can be a kind of scary thing… If you want a wow effect, that’s the thing, you have to do something different,” he said.
In that spirit, Qualin shared recipes for dishes that are sure to dazzle whoever lands at your holiday table.
Follow his tips to achieve perfect execution, the difference between A for effort and A for success.
CHEF’S TIPSSweet and Sour Beet Risotto and Meyer Lemon
This is a vegan riff on traditional risotto, which can call for butter, milk, chicken stock and Parmesan. The bright red color makes it a festive holiday dish. “This is one of my favorite dishes,” Qualin said. “It’s like eating a piece of candy.”
Cook the risotto in an herbal tea to give it more flavor than plain water.To make the herbal tea, use water that is hot, but not boiling. Aim for 185 degrees. That will allow the flavors to release subtly. Make the tea in bulk and freeze. Used it to infuse more flavor when cooking fish, pasta and other foods.Sushi rice cooks faster than arborio, traditionally used for risotto. Sushi rice cooks in about 15 minutes versus 30 minutes or more for arborio. Don’t overcook the rice. There should be a little bit of crunch inside the grains.Roasting beets, rather than boiling, will give them more flavor. Use baby beets to top the risotto because they have a sweeter, more intense taste.Wear gloves when working with beets so they don’t stain your hands.Use a ring mold to plate the risotto. Smooth it down using the back of a spoon.For the lemon foam, you can buy lecithin at Whole Foods. The key to getting a good foam is to put the liquid in a tall, thin container and move the hand blender up and down.Salmon Sashimi, Chipotle Mayonnaise and Crispy Rice
These starters are surprisingly substantial for such light and fresh flavors. Let guests pick them up as they mingle, or serve a few at a time for a special first course.
You don’t have to use salmon for this recipe. Any sushi-grade fish, such as hamachi or tuna, will do. Don’t spoon the soy glaze over the crispy rice on the plate you plan to serve with. It will spill all over and create a mess. Add the glaze and then plate on a serving dish.Top with several slices of fish, stacked on a bias.Skip the chiffonade. Rather than cutting fresh herbs, buy them in miniature. Qualin uses micro cilantro and other products from Arizona Microgreens, which sells to the public at farmers markets in Phoenix, Gilbert, Scottsdale and Carefree.
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Roasted Butternut Squash and Goat Cheese Salad, Pumpkin Seed Vinaigrette
This is a great dish for fall and winter. It calls for brown butter, something that is “really, really French,” Qualin said.
Cut the squash into slices before roasting. If you don’t, the squash will be too mushy to cut.Adding vinegar and lemon to the vinaigrette stops the cooking and helps keep the butter from burning.The trick to avoid burning the brown butter is to have a large bowl filled with ice nearby. If the pan gets too hot, lay it atop the ice to cool it down.When you plate the salad, serve it immediately. Otherwise, the greens will wilt.Qualin likes to use local produce from McClendon’s Select Organic Farm and goat cheese from Fossil Creek Creamery in Strawberry. You can find both at farmers markets around metro Phoenix.Jalapeño and Truffle Cheese Fritters
These bite-sized fritters are great for a cocktail party, where guests are mingling rather than sitting down. They are easy to eat and provide a spicy kick.
For the pate a choux, the key is to keep the batter moving inside the pot. It will stick to the bottom; that’s OK if it’s only a little.Put the batter in a stand mixer to cool it down. The batter must be cool before you add eggs, or they will cook as you add them.Add eggs one by one. Wait until each is incorporated to add the next.Make the fritters marble-sized. If they are too big, they will be cold inside after cooking.Burning Duchess cocktail
This seasonal cocktail has a gradient of white to red. It’s sweet, smoky and spicy with pomegranate, rye whiskey and jalapeño.
Qualin likes the smokiness of the Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey. This cocktail is easy to make, and that’s important. “You don’t want people to wait on their drink,” Qualin said. “Never for the first one.” You could make a pitcher, but it may lose the coloring.
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THE RECIPES
Salmon Sashimi, Chipotle Mayonnaise and Crispy Rice
From chef Jacques Qualin of J&G Steakhouse
Servings: 4.
Ingredients
Chipotle mayonnaise:
2 egg yolks2 tablespoons red wine vinegar½ ounce orange juice1½ ounces lime juice1 ounce chipotle in adobo1 tablespoon salt½ quart grape seed oil1 ounce olive oil
Preparation
Combine all ingredients except the oils in a food processor and process until smooth. Blend while slowly streaming in oils until everything is incorporated.
Rice:
½ pound Japanese Nishiki sushi rice1 quart cold water1 ounce mirin wine3 tablespoons rice vinegar1 ounce konbu seaweed2 tablespoons salt
Preparation
Combine all ingredients in a medium sauce pot and bring to a simmer. Cover with a lid that has been wrapped in a damp towel, and simmer slowly until rice is cooked. Let sit off the heat, covered, for 15 minutes and then discard konbu. Press in a plastic wrap-lined container to achieve a 1-inch thick brick. Once cool, cut into rectangles (2 inches long by 1 inch wide).
Soy honey:
2 ounces light soy 2½ ounces honey ½ ounce sherry vinegar ½ ounce rice vinegar
Preparation
Bring all ingredients to a boil and let cool.
To serve
3 pieces rice rectangles1 tablespoon chipotle mayonnaise1 piece scallion whites, thinly sliced on slight bias2 ounces salmon, sliced like sashimi and shingled into ½ portions½ tablespoon honey soyMint and cilantro, fine chiffonade, for garnishFleur de sel, for garnish
Preparation
Deep-fry rice rectangles until just crispy, then immediately transfer to paper towels and season with salt. In a small bowl, combine chipotle mayonnaise and scallions. Top each rectangle with ½ tablespoon chipotle mayonnaise mix, then drape with salmon. Drizzle with honey soy and transfer to square plate. Place a small pinch of mint cilantro mix on each piece, then finish with fleur de sel.
Jalapeño and Truffle Cheese Fritters
From chef Jacques Qualin of J&G Steakhouse
Servings: 100 pieces (10 servings).
Ingredients
Pate a choux:
16 ounces water 2 cups flour½ pound butter10 eggs
Preparation
Bring water and butter to a simmer. Stir in flour and cook until batter comes clean off the pot. Transfer to a mixer and whisk for 2 minutes to cool. Add 1 egg until fully incorporated. Repeat, adding eggs one by one, until all eggs are fully incorporated. Cool before using.
Fritters:
1 pound Comté cheese, grated2 pounds pate a choux2 tablespoons black truffle oil4 tablespoons black truffle peelings, rough chopped4 tablespoons jalapeño, chopped½ tablespoon salt
Preparation
Mix well. Portion into ½-ounce balls, about the size of a large marble. Fry in a 375-degree fryer until golden (place a basket on top to submerge for best results). Blot well and season with salt.
Roasted Butternut Squash and Goat Cheese Salad, Pumpkin Seed Vinaigrette
From chef Jacques Qualin of J&G Steakhouse
Servings: 2.
Ingredients
Roasted squash:
1 butternut squashOlive oilSalt and pepper1 small dried red chili1½ teaspoons coriander seed
Preparation
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Peel squash then cut in half lengthwise and remove seeds. Cut in half width-wise and then cut into long slices (it will yield 8-10 rectangles depending on the size of the squash). Put squash slices in a roasting pan and rub with olive oil. Pound together the salt, pepper, dried chili and coriander seeds and then scatter over the squash. Roast for 30 minutes until soft and golden.
Pumpkin seed vinaigrette:
4 ounces whole butter1½ ounces pumpkin seedsSalt1 tablespoon shallot, minced1 red Thai chiliJuice of 1 lemon2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
Preparation
In a sauce pan, heat the butter, whisking constantly until dark brown. Add the pumpkin seeds and salt and stir constantly until the seeds are golden and puffed. Add the shallot and Thai chili and cook for 1 minute, add the lemon juice and sherry vinegar and reserve warm.
Lemon vinaigrette:
¼ cup fresh lemon juice¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil½ teaspoon salt¼ teaspoon black pepper, ground fine
Preparation
Combine in a squirt bottle and shake well before each use.
To serve
4 slices roasted butternut squash½ ounce watercress, washed and trimmed½ ounce frisee, washed and trimmedLemon vinaigrette, to taste1 ounce goat cheese, crumbled2 tablespoons pumpkin seed vinaigretteMicro basil leaves, for garnishFleur de sel, for garnish
Preparation
Warm the squash in the oven, arrange on the plate, top with crumbled goat cheese. Toss the watercress and frisee lightly in lemon vinaigrette and plate over the squash. Mix the vinaigrette and spoon over the squash. Finish with micro basil and fleur de sel.
Sweet and Sour Beet Risotto and Meyer Lemon
From chef Jacques Qualin of J&G Steakhouse
Servings: 4.
Ingredients
Herbal tea:
1 bunch rosemary, broken at last minute1 bunch thyme, broken at last minute1 Thai chili, split1 lemon peel, pith removed1 quart tea water (185 degrees)½ ounce salt
Preparation
Combine all but the water and salt in a quart container, then pour the water over. Cover and let steep 30 minutes. Strain through a chinois, pushing for total extraction and season with the salt.
Risotto:
4 cups Japanese Nishiki sushi rice1 ounce shallot, minced1 cup extra-virgin olive oil1 quart herbal tea, with ½ cup reserved for later
Preparation
In a large saute pan, sweat shallots in oil until tender. Add rice and sweat, stirring with a rubber spatula until the tips of the rice are translucent. Add enough of the tea to saturate the rice and cook over medium heat, flipping the rice over itself until almost dry. Continue process until tea is finished, then transfer to a thin, even layer of a hotel pan and let cool at room temp. Do not transfer to another container. Keep covered with a damp towel at room temperature until needed.
Cooked beets:
10 pieces each of 3 colors of beets
Preparation
Cook each color of beet separately in water and salt until tender. When cooled, peel off the skin.
Beet marmalade:
½ pound roasted beets in the oven, small dice1 cup red wine vinegar½ cup sherry vinegar1 ounce ginger lemongrass cordial1 ounce sugar1 tablespoon salt
Preparation
Roast beets, then peel and dice them. Combine with vinegar over medium heat until it dries up and the beets have absorbed the vinegar.
Meyer lemon foam:
1 cup fresh Meyer lemon juice, strained through a chinois½ cup water½ ounce elderflower syrup cordial⅛ teaspoon lecithin
Preparation
Combine the water and lemon juice and warm to 130 degrees. Add lecithin and puree well with hand blender, then aerate to obtain a dense foam. Let settle 1 minute and skim off the top.
To serve
RisottoBeet marmalade½ cup reserved herb teaCooked beets1 tablespoon olive oilChervil, for garnishMeyer lemon, for garnishMeyer lemon foam
Preparation
Combine risotto, beet marmalade and herb tea and cook over heat high, flipping often until creamy and tight. Saute the beets in olive oil until warm. Lay the risotto in the middle of a bowl plate. Top with the beets, and then garnish with chervil and grated Meyer lemon. Sprinkle the foam all around.
Burning Duchess Cocktail
From J&G Steakhouse
Servings: 1.
Ingredients
1½ ounces simple syrup (or agave)2 ounces Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey1 ounce Pama Pomegranate Liqueur1 medium jalapeño, chopped, stem removedSplash tonic
Preparation
In a cocktail shaker, add the simple syrup (or agave), rye whiskey and Pama Pomegranate Liqueur and stir until combined. Add the jalapeño, replace the shaker cap and shake three times, then immediately pour through a strainer into highball glass filled with ice, straining out (and discarding) the jalapeño. Add a splash of tonic to the glass.
J&G Steakhouse at The Phoenician
Where: 6000 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix.
Details: 480-214-8000, jgsteakhousescottsdale.com. Christmas Eve and Day menus available.
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At dining.azcentral.com: Chef Jacques Qualin of J&G Steakhouse shows how to make sweet and sour beet risotto. BRIGHTCOVE ID#: 5232413600001