I’ve always felt Ireland and Portugal have an affinity, two small countries often overshadowed by their larger neighbour.
My son has just spent six months studying in Coimbra university, one of Europe’s oldest, founded in 1290.
He loved it, made Portuguese friends and felt completely at home there; he was reluctant to leave.
We visited him for five days at the end of January and we too fell for its charms and of course its pastries, especially the delicious pasteis de Tentúgal a sort of flaky custard-filled sausage roll.
I had thought I might visit Bairrada which is just to the north of Coimbra and famed for its nebbiolo like ‘baga’ grape, but instead we drove north-east to the Dão region.
The first Portuguese red wine I ever tasted was a Dão (pronounced ‘Dowm’) which I bought in Superquinn Kimmage in perhaps 1991, I don’t remember the vintage but it was at least ten years old with a wax covered top and had ethereal red fruit flavours, it was a little rustic but it intrigued me.
Dão has come a long way since then with lots of new wineries and investment. I visited M.O.B. wines, imported by Michael O’Brien of Grace Campbell wines (his initials a pleasing coincidence).
MOB actually stands for the three Douro winemakers Moreira, Olazabal and Borges who created the winery in 2013.
We tasted in the vineyard (my favourite tasting location) with winemaker Margarida Lopes with a pleasing view of the nearby Sierra da Estrela, Portugal’s highest mountain.
Granite soils here help provide acidity, mild warm summers ripen the fruits and cool nights keep the wines in balance.
I’ll feature the textured mineral Encruzado-Bical white another time but the MOB red is reviewed below along with two other stars from Portugal.
Watch also for MOB’s elegant complex and ageworthy Gauvé (c. €70).
Casa Ferreirinha ‘Esteva’ Douro, Portugal €16.95
Casa Ferreirinha ‘Esteva’ Douro, Portugal €16.95
JJ O’Driscolls; Cinnamon Cottage; Bradleys; Wine Centre; Baggot St. Wines; Independents.
This is the entry level wine of Portugal’s best known producer – they also make Barca Velha, the wine gifted to Alex Ferguson by Jose Mourinho (who recently released his own wine called ‘The Special One’, yes really).
Floral red and black fruit aromas, blackberry flavours on the palate, supple and fruit driven.
MOB Lote 3 Tinto 2022, Dão, Portugal €22
MOB Lote 3 Tinto 2022, Dão, Portugal €22
No. 21; Redmonds; La Touche; Higgins; Pinto Wines; Leonards Fine Wines
MOB is the initials of three Douro wine producers who came together to make wine in Dão just two hours south.
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Jaen and Alfrocheiro this pours a rich dark purple with violet and black cherry aromas, juicy and supple with balancing acidity and structure.
Finely tuned and delicious.
Filipa Pato ‘3B’ Brut Nature, Bairrada, Portugal €28.95
Filipa Pato ‘3B’ Brut Nature, Bairrada, Portugal €28.95
MacCurtain Wine Cellar; 64 Wines; Baggot St; GreenManWines.ie
From Bairrada near the college town of Coimbra and made by the brilliant Filipa Pato (her dad Luis Pato is also the region’s most lauded winemaker).
Bone dry with tangy lemon zest and pear aromas, a honey-tinged palate and a smoked almond note on the finish.
On its own, with seafood or perhaps a quiche.
Ballyhoo Irish Whiskey, 43% ABV, 70cl €38
Ballyhoo Irish Whiskey, 43% ABV, 70cl €38
CarryOut Killarney; O’Donovans; Selected SuperValu; Centra Crossmalina & good Mayo Off Licences; IrishMalts.com; connachtwhiskey.com
The Connacht distillery in Ballina was founded in 2016 – their tasty Single Malt appeared here in 2022.
This is column-still single grain (93% Corn, 7% Barley), aged four years & finished in Port casks.
Pale (uncoloured) with sweet vanilla and honey notes, light and fresh with a spicy touch and a port note on the finish.