What I find most frustrating is that many sources list intermittent watering as the cause of this problem. Yet I water my plants twice everyday and still get cracking, and in some instance sever as in the picture.
There has to be something else driving this problem. Perhaps its the rate at which water is applied?
I really want to get to bottom of this as I dont want to stop growing great varieties that are prone to cracking such as Sungold and Cherokee Purple.
by abdul10000
8 Comments
You have a lot of brown leaves I’m on the notion you are not giving them enough water even though you are watering twice per day.
Watering tomatoes twice a day might be too much. Are they in pots or the ground? Cause if they in the ground they definitely don’t need that much water. I grow in pots and cracking only happens to me during periods of heavy rain.
Water once in the morning and cut it back when you have big tomatoes on the vine ( the big tomatoes are water reservoirs imo)
In my experience cracking has usually been the result of too much water. Maybe a lack of calcium too. Let the soil dry out a bit between waterings and I always use pelletized dolomitic lime for extra calcium on maters and peppers.
Sungold is one especially prone to splitting and probably much more so at lower latitudes, hot areas a little closer to the equator such as South Texas where I am and or where the OP is located. I gave up on Sungold because of the seemingly impossible task of managing the watering without getting splitting.
My beefsteak types do much better with no splitting, at least in the first half or two thirds of the season, but I remember Cherokee Purple when I grew that one was also more prone to this splitting issue than many others. Big Zac was terrible about radial splitting like that in spite of receiving the same treatment as the others. Some varieties are just worse on this issue than others. There’s plenty of great dark tomatoes other than Cherokee Purple that might perform better on splitting. There are other cherry tomatoes besides Sungold that I know don’t split so readily. You have to grow what works where you are instead of trying to make varieties work where maybe they really aren’t suited for. Takes a while and some trial and error to find the better ones for your region.
I now have and go with about 12 to 15 centimeters of mulch over my tomato beds to help regulate soil moisture and temperature, trying to minimize moisture loss and moisture swings. The mulch does help prevent splitting.
A lot of the cracking issues I’ve found to be genetic. Some varieties of tomato are much more prone to it than others. Brandywines crack a lot.
Cracking tends to be a result of inconsistent watering. Large rainstorms tend to cause this. If you see a storm coming up, consider watering both days prior, ramping up to a rainstorm (assuming your soil is well-draining enough not to pool on the surface). This gives a consistent growth pattern, and prevents splitting.
Alternatively, since tomatoes need a deep watering, you may be simulating this scenario with your watering habits. Consider giving the tomatoes a very shallow watering in between your large ones in this case.
Inconsistent watering is the issue. Likely no mulch either + grow bags = problems.
From now on don’t “water” the grow bags. Fill a bucket or bin 1/3-1/2 full. Sit the grow bags in the bin or bucket and “bottom water”. Let the capillary action soak the bag then remove. Do this on a regular schedule and use mulch to prevent evaporation.
Good Luck!
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