Opera and bustle buzzes outside in the Soho theatre district, but step through the SOLA doors and it's relaxed elegance with breathy jazz covers gliding over the room.
This is the UK's only Californian style fine dining restaurant with a Michelin star, we're talking bright, sunny sensations that are light and flavourful. Expertly crafted and without getting too heavy.
Given its location, it makes sense that they have a quicker pre-theatre menu. It comes in three acts followed by dessert and sweets, plus there's a four glass wine pairing.
Act 1 – Canapes
The famous devilled egg was actually made from fish cream, which was ripe for a gochujang tang to steal the attention.
The vodka-cured salmon was stuffed with gorgeous strands of sweet potato (technically fish and chips) that went particularly well with the apple and kiwi notes in the paired champagne, while the pork belly was bursting with umami and aromatic jasmine foam.
Act II – Dreams of Kyoto
This was my favourite course, with the hamachi holding together a range of crisp spring flavours doused with sharp vinegar tang offset by the avocado ice cream. The cutest little shimeji mushrooms popped up too.
Given we'd had a french champagne, were about to have a French duck, and now a course called 'Dreams of Kyoto' I did wonder how 'California' this all was but it did match the promised cooking style that I mentioned above.
Act III – Mieral Duck
Duck was tender but the parfait with red berry coating was the most interesting part.
The pinot noir here (American Recordings from Oregon) was probably my favourite tipple of the evening. Spring berries with a little bit of pepper.
Dessert – Caviar and chocolate
I know what you're thinking, they'll stick caviar on anything these days. I was sceptical but when I tried it it all made sense, we had salted chocolate all the time now and it worked in a similar manner.
I tried the mignardises with Inniskillin Vidal Gold ice wine, a rich honey sweetness to round off the meal. (I did take a bite before a picture, and I'm not sorry.) The ice wine isn't part of the pairing, but I said I was interested in it and the som poured me a glass on the sly.
The whole experience took about 90 minutes without any rushing, definitely time to fit in before the curtain is raised although I wouldn't HATE to have some bread too.
Service was knowledgeable and very friendly, definitely no stuffiness. A few courses came with some theatrics, tableside flambe and whatnot.
The whole thing came to about £160 with tip.
by AndyVale