Where sun-soaked sands meet a kaleidoscope of global flavours, it’s no wonder Cape Town is the star of our social media feeds right now.
The South African city may be 12 hours away by plane but with the minimal two-hour time difference, it’s easy for British jetsetters to hit the ground running.
But there is another reason why Brits lead the millions of tourists flocking to the southern city: the wine.
The blossoming scene has oenophiles reaching for the closest spittoon to sample the best that the region has to offer. And there are many ways to do this. You may already be familiar with the iconic Wine Tram that stops at the various historic vineyards of Franschhoek – just an hour from the buzz of Cape Town. But you need not leave the city to get a taste of the independent producers across the country.
One&Only
The One&Only is one of, if not the top, hotel in South Africa. Positioned on the V&A Waterfront, you have a breathtaking view of Table Mountain from the second you step inside. The floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the iconic flat-topped landmark in all its glory with the hotel’s Vista cocktail bar in the foreground.
One&Only
There are two restaurants here; South Africa’s only Nobu and the newer Rooi, a fire concept restaurant where everything is grilled in the traditional Braai style. In the latter, you will find the ever-changing wine menu curated by One&Only Cape Town’s Head Sommelier, Luvo Ntzeo.
One&Only Cape Town’s Head Sommelier, Luvo Ntzeo
One&Only
Around the hotel, you’ll spot homages to the local culture, from delicate design details like the pottery and artwork by local artists – including ostrich feathers (once SA currency), to the carpet that bears the topography of Table Mountain. But it’s no more obvious than in the diverse wine list.
Upon chairs adorned to resemble the horns of Ankole-Watusi cattle, I sat down with Ntzeo in the resort’s designated tasting area to sip my way through a sample of the around 5000 wines offered and decode the signatures of South African wine.
One&Only
Ntzeo creates the wine programme at the One&Only to reflect the diverse nature of the country. There are designated under 25 initiatives and wine months to showcase women vintners and curations designed to bring people together through like-minded passions. As such, it has put the hotel at the forefront of South Africa’s wine story. The hotel hosts the annual celebration of the country’s wine birthday each February.
Before we begin, Ntzeo reassures me that one needs not be a wine expert to flex the lexicon. He decodes what the common descriptors really mean:
Is it warm? Yes, if you can taste sun, ripe and yellow notes. Or is it fresh? Expect saltiness like the sea, crisp and green flavoursAcidic? The more that it causes you to salivate, the more acidic the wineHow long does it last in your mouth? This determines if it has a long or short finishWooded or not? Look for toast, anything burnt or vanillaLegs aka the streaking liquid after swirling are an indication of alcohol content, sugar and body
The soul of the South African cellar
The beauty of South African wine is that there are no bad years. The climate provides consistent vintages, while the diverse range of soils – from the mountains to the Atlantic and Indian Oceans brings a vibrancy that means you can enjoy wines in their youth without needing to mature them for an extended period.
Ntzeo’s respect for the craft is contagious. He explains that the producers “make and serve wine with emotion” and describes the “soul” in every sip. The country’s passionate vintners see their produce as a gift to create joy and bring people together.
Chenin Blanc is most typically associated with South Africa as the French grape thrives in the contrasting cold coastal areas as well as the hot lowlands. It is best enjoyed with fish – but it can be crisp and fresh, meaning it also pairs well with oily, saltier dishes or complex, elegant and rich like seafood. The most profitable is the Sauvignon Blanc, best enjoyed in the year that it is bottled, unlike the Chenin which requires ageing for around six years.
What makes SA wines stand out is the welcome lack of snobbery typically associated with wine production and tasting. It is defined by its accessibility and connection.
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