Hummus at Sifr
Photo courtesy Sifr
Often, we go to a restaurant because we want to play it safe. Maybe we’ve been there before and love the food. Or maybe we like the look and feel of the place. Whatever the reason, we don’t want to be surprised.
Then there are places we frequent simply because they’re different; we look forward to trying a new cuisine or sampling more innovative plates. Sifr (660 N. Orleans Street, Chicago), is just such a place.
Sifr has been open about two years, but I hadn’t had the opportunity to dine there until recently; now that I’ve had the experience, I’m happy to report that here is a restaurant that has a lot going for it, not only in terms of its variety and excellence of its dishes, but also attentive, polite service, as well as a handsome, down to earth interior.
Rice pilaf at Sifr
Photo courtesy Sifr
There are two menus available, one a la carte, the other a tasting menu. My friend and I chose the tasting menu, and we were glad we did; I’d recommend it, especially as it shows off the creativity of chefs Sujan Sarkar and Sahil Sethi, and their team in the kitchen; this is the best way to experience the soul of the kitchen.
The first course on the tasting menu is a Charred Green Chickpea Hummus that is designed as a table share. This is a great way to start, as the large pita bread, served warm, is very flavorful, while the hummus itself offers as many complex flavors as I’ve ever enjoyed in this type of food; fresh chickpeas add some zing to this dish.
There are five options for course two; each diner chooses one. My companion opted for the Maitake Mushroom with yellow pepper, zaatar (a blend of herbs), Meyer lemon and parsley, while I selected the Chicken Kebab, served with zhoug (a spicy sauce made from several ingredients including cilantro and garlic). Cooked perfectly, with just the right amount of spice, the chicken was very meaty and tender.
Regarding the spiciness of the preparations at Sifr, I told the manager that a little spice would be fine for me, but that I couldn’t handle a lot of it. He told me he would tell the kitchen, and as they were preparing this dish, I noticed he was doing exactly that. On a crowded Thursday night, that was great attention to detail by him, which I greatly appreciate. This type of service is another reason to recommend Sifr.
Patio space at Sifr
Photo courtesy Sifr
For course three, there are five options, ranging from a very large Hearth Roasted Cauliflower to Roasted Chicken, Branzino, Lamb Shank and Duck Fasenjan. As someone who loves duck, I chose that; again, here was a well-prepared, highly complex dish with pine nuts and pomegrante, which serve as a delicate contrast to the duck meat; accompanying the duck is a wonderful rice pilaf, which is among the best I’ve tried. This was a highlight of the meal; incidentally, this is a gluten-free dish, as noted on the menu; mentioning which dishes are vegetarian, or gluten-free or contain nuts is a thoughtful decision by the owners, and I’m sure many diners will appreciate this touch.
As for drinks, there are nine house cocktails, and in keeping with the restaurant’s theme, these are truly specialty offerings; consider one called Talata, made from gin, arak, melon, basil and cucumber; try finding that somewhere else. The wine list is a mix of the usual: sparkling (white and rosé), Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Cabernet Sauvignon (I tried the Austin Hope Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California, and thought it was an excellent choice for this cuisine (it is available by the glass and the bottle) and the more unusual. As you would expect, there are some wine selections from the Middle East and Mediterranean, including an orange wine from Lebanon and an elegant Syrah from Morocco.
The last course on the tasting menu was dessert; there are two options: Passionfruit Sorbet, which was excellent, and Date Pudding, served with Caramel ice cream, which was even better. The cost for the current tasting menu is $60 per person, which is a very reasonable price in my opinion.
The uncomplicated, attractive dining room is functional, and serves its purpose. The combination of the setting, creativity from the kitchen, professional service and fair pricing make Sifr a must for anyone interested in a highly distinctive dining experience. Very Highly Recommended
Sifr – 660 N. Orleans Street, Chicago, IL 60654 / (464) 204-8711