It’s been three decades since South Africa opened up to the world and our high streets welcomed a flood of wine from the Western Cape. Quality was mixed but goodwill was in large supply, so a new generation of producers, enjoying their new-found freedom, hit the road and learnt how others were making wine around the world.
Thirty years later South Africa is one of the most exciting wine-producing countries on Earth. The picture is now more complicated, but there are some aspects that help to understand its vinous landscape.
Despite having some of the world’s oldest soils, South African wines adhere to the southern hemisphere’s practice of being labelled by grape variety. For whites the big two are sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc. The latter have more notes of tropical fruit than those from France and are mostly dry. They make a good alternative to chardonnay, combining citrus and lively acidity — such as Waitrose’s 2023 Kleine Zalze Heritage Chenin Blanc (£12.99).
Reds are mostly cabernet sauvignon but have been joined by syrah, cabernet franc and cinsault. As for fine wine, the country excels at Bordeaux-inspired blends comprising cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc — look out for Meerlust’s Rubicon, Kanonkop’s Paul Sauer and Rustenburg’s John X Merriman. But the overarching theme is value. From less than £10 to over £30, South Africa’s wines punch well above their price tags. Asda’s 2021 Extra Special Pinotage (£7) is a case in point, doing what pinotage should do — combining luscious dark plum with a touch of bacon fat on the nose and a spicy finish. Here are six more to try.
2023 Stellenbosch Drive Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot
(14%) Co-op in store, £8.25
This supple, well-priced blend teems with blackcurrant and delivers a hint of toasty oak on the finish.
2023 Reyneke Organic Chenin Blanc
(13.5%) Waitrose, £10.99
One of the best-value chenin blancs on the high street, with soft notes of pear, citrus and tropical fruit.
2023 Generation Series South African Red
(13.5%) The Wine Society, £12.95
Crafted by star winemaker Duncan Savage, this has a herbaceous, smoky nose and a silky mouthfeel.
2022 Kanonkop Kadette Cape Blend
(14%) Sainsbury’s, £13
This excellent blend from one of South Africa’s top estates is great value, with focused berry flavour and a smoky edge.
2023 Olifantsberg Breede River Valley Grenache Noir
(14%) Tesco in store, £15
An elegant, fragrant red from a producer to watch, this is bursting with floral cherry and raspberry.
2021 Migliarina Stellenbosch Syrah
(13.5%) Yapp Brothers, £20.25
This rich, dark-hued syrah has lovely aromas of violet and strawberry, with just a suggestion of pepper.
Will’s pick from The Sunday Times Wine Club
2022 Maison Dominique Piron Fleurie
France (14%)
sundaytimeswineclub.co.uk, £17.99
Here’s a luscious, smooth beaujolais cru with a generous finish, the gamay grape imparting a good blast of cherry and blackberry.