Picture it: Philadelphia, 1970. The Phillies were playing their last games at Connie Mack Stadium, you could buy a rowhouse for $11,000, and Chef Georges Perrier was opening the country’s finest French restaurant, right here in Center City. Le Bec-Fin served a $22, five-course menu made up of tiny lobster tails in brown sauce, veal kidneys in a brown mustard sauce, and pike quenelles. Servers wore tuxedos, dishes were gold plated, and the chandeliers were crystal. Understated, it was not.
After a historic 43-year run, Le Bec-Fin finally closed in 2013 (Georges Perrier sold the business the year prior). And by then, French food had evolved, fine dining had spread far and wide, and other local restaurants were drawing national attention. But the itch for Saturday-night-worthy service and a little glitz hasn’t gone away, even if the restaurant has. These places capture that spirit, French fine dining or not.