In the late 1960s a group of doctors came across a report by a Western Australian scientist, Dr John Gladstones, that identified a region three hours south of Perth with the potential to make wines as good as those of Bordeaux. Really? An area known for its outback, surf and kangaroos could rival a region with a near 1,000-year track record of making some of the world’s greatest red wines?
What nobody had until then noticed was that the area around Margaret River, with its mild, maritime climate air-conditioned by the ocean, was “perfect” for growing grapes. The doctors got planting and nearly 60 years later the founding trio of estates, led by Dr Tom Cullity at Vasse Felix, Dr Bill Pannell at Moss Wood and Dr Kevin Cullen and his wife, Diana, at Cullen Wines (soon followed by Leeuwin Estate), today make some of the most sublime, elegant and sophisticated wines in the southern hemisphere. What makes Margaret River unique is not simply its outstanding natural beauty, but that it’s one of the few Australian regions with a discernible vinous style. These are artisanal wines with a light touch that dial down the fruit and focus on a flavour that is restrained, medium-bodied and dry.
The success story here has been cabernet sauvignon, which has a fresher, less fruit-driven character than the reds of South Australia — think savoury notes of cedar and dried tobacco. The chardonnay grape has also made its mark, marrying tropical fruit with a delicate hint of citrus that is good enough to rival those in Burgundy.
Leeuwin Estate certainly makes some of the finest chardonnay in Australia. But in recent years, shiraz and the old Bordeaux blend of sauvignon and semillon have really impressed. These offer a lovely bridge between the succulence and ripeness found in Australia and the restraint of their European counterparts.
2022 Mad Fish Western Australian Shiraz (14%)
Waitrose, £9.99
Named after Mad Fish Bay south of Margaret River, this is a rounded red with spice and juicy berry flavour.
2023 Howard Park Margaret River Miamup Chardonnay (12.5%)
Tesco, £12
Park’s superb chardonnay marries tropical fruit with delicate acidity and a touch of vanilla.
2022 South by South West Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (13.5%)
The Wine Society, £14.95
This small-batch blend is silky and elegant, with plenty of plum and blackcurrant.
2023 Vasse Felix Filius Margaret River Chardonnay (13%)
Majestic, £15.99
An intense chardonnay with zesty notes of citrus and ginger, and a crisp, dry, satisfying finish.
2023 Moss Wood Elsa Ribbon Vale Sauvignon Blanc (13.5%)
Jeroboams, £32.95
This creamy sauvignon feels quite old world, with gentle notes of tropical fruit and a deft texture.
2021 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Shiraz (13.5%)
Avery’s, £36
Leeuwin’s excellent shiraz has a light European touch with subtle, taut dark fruit and a pure, dry finish.
Bargain of the week
2021 Taste the Difference Saint-Chinian
France (13.5%)
Sainsbury’s, £9 (down from £10)
This smooth red from the Languedoc has lush dark fruit and a herbaceous kick.