„Gdzie kebab jest sztuką” – ROBERT MAKŁOWICZ TURCJA odc.227

Naszą wizytę w Turcji rozpoczynamy w Antalyi nad Morzem Śródziemnym i postaramy się pokazać, że słynna Turecka Riwiera oferuje znacznie więcej atrakcji, niż tylko szerokie plaże. Zwiedzimy samo miasto i jego najbliższe okolice, nie zapominając o jakże licznych tam historycznych śladach, sięgających czasów starożytnych Greków i Rzymian, wyskoczymy w Góry Taurus, przyjrzymy się lokalnej gastronomii, skupiając się zwłaszcza na ogólnoświatowym fenomenie kebabów, przecież z Turcji się wywodzących. Dla gotujących przepis na pory w oliwie z koperkiem, czosnkowym jogurtem i paprykowym masłem. #RobertMakłowicz #Makłowicz

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Ladies and Gentlemen, at the very beginning of this program, I propose to go back in time, and to make this transfer easier for you, first imagine who you see, that is, me, as a much younger man, only a bit more stature and handsome, wearing characteristic breastplates, a beautiful helmet with a characteristic sword, a Greek sword, attached to his belt. And if you can imagine it, we will move to this place to the year 333 BC. We are in an ancient city, in the remains of that city, more precisely, a city called Phaselis, and it was here that Alexander of Macedon walked in that year. He walked amid the applause of the gathered residents. So Phaselis, my dears. Now let’s verbally delve into his story. Phaselis was founded in the 7th century BC by colonists from the island of Rhodes. And it was an ancient Greek city. Such a classic Greek polis. Then Rome flourished incredibly in Roman times . It was a truly significant urban organism. Well, as we know, Rome fell. It was divided into the Western and Eastern Empires and Phaselis fell to the Eastern Empire, i.e. Byzantium. It also had its glory days back then. It was so important that a bishopric was established here. As we know, Christianity became the dominant religion in both the Western and Eastern Empires. Here Byzantium, Eastern Rite. We won’t go into details now. That’s a bit later. The point is that the world then suddenly began to change and what the locals lived on, i.e. trade, ceased to exist, because the trade routes that functioned extremely efficiently in the times of ancient Greece, ancient Rome and the beginnings of Byzantium disappeared. Arab invasions and the city was abandoned in the 7th century AD and in the 7th century after Christ. Now it is not only archaeologists who are discovering them. Work is still ongoing here, but it is one of the tourist attractions of this place. Well, what place? I’ll tell you about it literally a hundred meters from here. So the placement. This sound of waves comes from the Mediterranean Sea. For I am on the Mediterranean Sea, but in Asia Minor. I’m in Turkey. A part of it I’ve never been to before. I know the European part of Turkey quite well. I penetrated her with my car many times. Also the one on the Black Sea. This is where great tea comes from the Karadeniz, i.e. the Black Sea. I know Istanbul. I have only traveled through the Bosphorus once, and I have never been here, but my dear compatriots have been here many times, because this part of the Turkish Riviera, around the city of Antalya, is a top, top, top, top destination for organized trips, so today I will try to show that of course it is great to do nothing on vacation, lie by the pool, but to make this picture complete, it is also wonderful to move a little from the hotel to see such splendors as yours too. will be revealed today. Mediterranean Sea, Turkish Riviera, Asia Minor. Many times during my peregrinations I learned how important culture was to the ancients. Well, wherever they founded a city, they built a theater. Well, it was no different here. This is a theater from Greek times, converted by the Romans. It is estimated that the population of a given city is three times the capacity of the theater. This theater could accommodate five thousand people already in Roman times. So the city probably had about fifteen thousand people. Culture, but also hygiene. Here we have ruins, but well-preserved, of public latrines and baths. People came from the sea. They had to go to the bathhouse not only to wash themselves. Also to see if they have any rash on their body, whether they have brought some kind of plague. It’s all here. A beautiful bay, a natural port. In fact, there are three such bays and ports here and it was this location that determined the founding of the city. How important was it? Well, let this be proven by the fact that there were some famous people from the ancient world here, not only Alexander of Macedon. Here, in one of these bays, his war fleet was stationed, but Emperor Hadrian was also here. Well, he was almost everywhere in his empire, because he traveled like crazy, but he wasn’t in all Roman cities. And besides, in this place we have everything that really attracted us here. Monuments on the one hand, but the beauty of the Turkish Riviera. Mediterranean Sea, Taurus Mountains. Well, it’s just wonderful. Taurus Mountains. A wonderful, powerful, extremely long band, stretching for 1,600 kilometers. We are in Taurus Central and in this place the mountains almost lean on the sea. The peaks we saw earlier in the ancient city were Taurus. We went a little deeper into the mountains, which we will see in several of our Turkish sections, as we will be driving through them by car, but for now we are here for this. Firstly, to show a bit of this mountain landscape, but also in matters that are fundamental from the point of view of our program. The tiny village of Ulupınar. Really tiny. A few houses, a temple, i.e. a mosque, but there are several very famous restaurants in the area. Literally almost a few hundred meters away. And it would be a sin not to sit in at least one of them. Streams flow down from the mountains and trout swim in the streams. And there are restaurants along these streams. This place is called Botanik. And in general, this concept of a restaurant by a mountain stream, like real Bosnia. Anyway, this mountain area here reminds me of Bosnia. Not only trout, the menu will be available in a moment, but it’s great to sit here. Well, these are not normal tables. There are carpets. You have to take off your shoes. So what’s it like sitting here? Well, in Turkish, after all, we are in Turkey. Because man cannot live by trout alone, so we ordered what? Different faces of what is best in this country, especially in the mountains, i.e. lamb. This is an adana kebab, i.e. minced lamb baked on such a sword. Here we have kuzu şiş, i.e. lamb skewers taken from the sword. Here we have lamb chops. Plus various types of accessories. Meze. This is yogurt with mint. This is a tomato and pepper paste. Warm bread. Still plump, straight from the oven. Rice with bulgur. Pickled onion, salted, squeezed. Lots of parsley. This is shepherd’s salad. My dears, this is something here… Oh, here is also a very long kebab, also sword meat. It is ordered by the meter. This isn’t… See? Here it was hammered in, shaped with hands and baked over a fire, on such a sword, a sword-sabre. A bit of this. A bit of this. Excellent. As wonderful as the landscape around. We are at the first place of our stay. A place to stay. We spend three nights here. A hotel with the really bad name Juju Premier Palace. We are of course close to Antalya, because there is an airport there, but we are next to the city of Kemar. Because this is where we are closer to the mountains. Well, we simply connect the mountains with the sea. So we decided that this is where everything would be good, and it is. My dears, here are all the ingredients necessary to make a dish that I made several times in Poland and when I read the recipe for the first time, and then I made the dish, I had no idea that something so wonderful could come out of such “despicable” in quotation marks ingredients . These are the leeks in the olive oil. Zeytinyağlı pırasa in Turkish. I’m sorry if I made any mistakes in pronunciation or accent. I took the recipe from a Turkish book that I once bought in Istanbul and it’s really great. Leeks in olive oil. So yes, here we have olive oil. Six, eight spoons. Quite a lot. And now, she doesn’t have to be hot yet. I add the chopped onion to this olive oil and now I add most of the garlic that is in the bowl. I’ll save a bit of garlic. I will continue to do more things with him. Now it will click and blink here, and now the pores. Leeks, well basically just the white parts. Washed, but they need to be properly prepared. You have to take off that first layer. The first one. However, without cutting the whole thing. If we cut the leek like this, it will fall apart in the pot when I cut it as I will do in a moment, and we want it to be… It may be stringy, and we want to have such porous pieces in the pot, so you have to do it this way, checking whether there is any dirt or soil inside . Then you need to wash it thoroughly. I cut it like this and wait until the onion starts to shimmer in the pan. The garlic is fragrant, the onion is softening and now we add pieces of leek, or rather leeks, because there are four leeks here and they should be stewed together for two or three minutes. The point is that nothing should burn or even brown. This is without any spices for now. This is how it will happen here in this olive bath. I have two dominant sounds around me. Namely, the sound of the sea and the sound of leeks stewed in olive oil. And it’s hard to say which one is more beautiful, but in this case they are extremely consistent with each other. Well, it’s not a sea dish, but you see what I mean. Mountains, so mare e monti, as the Italians would say. Now for the next things. As you can see here I have rice. A very small amount of rice. This is a spoon. A heaping tablespoon of rice. Yes, that’s all. Long grain rice that I soaked for a while. I rinsed it a few times under running water and soaked it to get rid of the starch. And now this rice… Yes, there is really little of it. Pour in more or less evenly, if possible. Remember, it will swell. This is not rice with leeks. He is just a slight counterpoint here. And now the liquid. The recipe includes either water, chicken stock or vegetable stock . I have a combination of the two. Namely, it is some strong chicken stock. I got it here from the kitchen. There is a kitchen, a hotel and everything, but it won’t be enough. The recipe for four leeks contains 300 milliliters of liquid, so it’s not much. I add water, pouring it so that the rice grains fall from the leeks. Okay. And now the spices. Spices so simple. How simple. Lemon juice. I’ll squeeze half a lemon without the seeds. And it is. And one seed fell. It’s always like that, but I already have it. Come here. It is, it is, it is, it is, it is. Naked. Well, you see, if I throw it here, maybe a lemon tree will grow there. It’s that vibe. Lemon juice. Salt. This broth, I tried it, is not very salty, so salt and a little sugar. The taste can be improved later. It means add salt, because you can’t desalt it. The last stage is evaporating the dish, but first let’s check what it looks like. You see clearly. There is still some water and broth, but this liquid will disappear soon. It will soak into both the rice and the leeks. Let’s check what the rice is like. Soft. Now over low heat. This evaporates, but you need to add dill to it. Lots of dill. The local love for dill is common with our nation, because we like dill, and in fact, Turks love dill. Many dishes here are extremely dill and dill, just dill, not thyme, not rosemary. Dill is the most important thing in this dish. Dill inside and now some freshly ground black pepper. I’ve already turned off the heat under it. It is eaten lukewarm or even cold, so now it is cooling down. So what is its consistency? Well, the rice has the consistency of risotto, but there is very little of this rice. In fact, what’s left is olive oil and now I have to do one of the last things, because you can eat it this way, only with lemon pieces, which you sprinkle over the whole thing, but you can also eat it in a slightly different way. This other method involves first grinding some garlic with salt on a board or crushing it in a mortar. Now I put this garlic into a bowl. Here I have yogurt. Wonderful, natural, thick Turkish yogurt. Of course, if you do it with Greek yogurt or with proper Polish Greek yogurt, as it is called in Poland, nothing will happen. Now you need to mix it, that’s why there is little garlic, and there is little yogurt. Look how thick it is. A little salt, a little garlic. This isn’t supposed to be a garlic chainsaw massacre. It should be slightly garlicky and a little salty. I’m putting it off. Now I take off this vessel, put it here and we have an exchange. Namely, a small pot and now I make butter in this pot. What a characteristic butter that finishes many Turkish dishes. The butter is almost noisette, i.e. burnt, but now it will change its taste and color because kırmızı biber, i.e. wonderful, slightly spicy, crushed pepper, goes into the pan . Not paprika powder, just flakes. You can buy it in any store selling Turkish specialties in Poland. I have one like this at home. And now we are finishing the thing. Okay, it’s not hot anymore. Some leeks go onto the plate. Look at the bottom of the pan. I’ll show it to you now. It’s dry. All the flavor is inside. And now, as I said, it’s either a lemon wedge or something like that. Thick, delicious yogurt. It’s so thick that I have to use an extra spoon. We break it down here. It is now, now, now, now. Right now. Butter from kırmızı biber. My dears, this is just so good. A few leeks, some olive oil, some onion, some garlic, dill and we have a wonderful, wonderful dish. The idea is to have everything in one bite. Leek, dill, this yogurt sauce, butter with peppers and everything is… It’s amazing how the way of preparation changes some things. Leeks cut into such pieces have a consistency almost similar to that of white asparagus. This is a truly delicious dish. The Promised Antalya. It is a truly great city today. It is estimated that one and a half million people live here. I’m on the newest part right now. This district is called Lara. We will, of course, show the monuments. We will go to old Antalya, but for now I want to show you something here. By the way, sorry, I’m talking a bit through my nose, but I’ve got a cold. On the plane. Closed box. Someone must have had a cold and now it’s me. That’s why I drink pomegranate juice. Firstly, because it is delicious. Freshly squeezed. Secondly, because it is the maximum condensation of vitamin C. Besides, today in the city I will take various other products that are perfect for combating colds. For now, I want to show you something that is not so much the merit of man, but the city is the merit of man, because man built it. I want to show you something that nature created. The local areas are karst, meaning we have rocks from which underground rivers flow. Ponornice, just like Trebisznica in Trebinje, Bosnia and Herzegovina. I’ve shown it to you many times. And this is a karst river. Her name is Köprüçay. Cay means river in Turkish. Tea too, but also a river, and köprü is watermelon. You already know where we got this word. And this name perfectly describes its former functions, because watermelons were grown on a massive scale along its banks . Why? Well, first of all, because there was water, so we could irrigate the fields. Secondly, the idea was that it was possible to float these watermelons and simply take them on a watercraft for those hungry for watermelons. And thirdly, and this is an extremely important function, it was possible to cool these watermelons in this icy depths of the pond . Warm watermelon isn’t really good for anything. Both here in Turkey and in the Balkans, we very often see such piles of watermelons on which water from an icy stream is pouring , because cold watermelon is the essence of everything. Well, Köprüçay, but this river has another extremely spectacular moment. A bit further down there. This is how the watermelon river ends its course, and it must be admitted that it is an extremely spectacular way, because we have cliffs and a wonderful waterfall. I was told that at the moment it is not that strong, that wonderful, because the snow in the mountains, there is less and less of it, in the Taurus Mountains it melted a long time ago, and there were only a few of them, so now it is apparently nothing compared to what can be here in March, for example, but it is still beautiful. And the cliffs, and all that is here, you see, these are housing estates, this has been the case for the last twenty years. Here, twenty years ago, there were men who grew watermelons, and almost exclusively they. We are now entering the historical part of the city and we will have different historical eras almost in one frame. Much often, very far from each other, because this is the very early Middle Ages. Remains of Byzantine defensive walls. This is the Sahat Kula, or clock tower. The very beginning of the 20th century. Every self-respecting city in the Ottoman Empire had such a tower. I have shown this to you many times in various places in Bosnia. Here we have a mosque from the Ottoman era. This is the 16th century, but if we look in that direction, we will have Seljuk times. It was the Seljuk Turks who were the first to take over these areas from Byzantium and this is a mosque from the 13th century, and we will go down and travel back in time. Hadrian’s Gate, the entrance to the former Roman city in the form of a triumphal arch. It dates back to the 2nd century AD. I already talked a little about Hadrian in this episode, so of course he was also here. He was almost everywhere. Not only in this area, but the history of Antalya is much older, because the city was founded by a certain Attalos II, king of Pergamon, and it was in the 2nd century BC, so first Pergamon, i.e. the ancient Greeks, then the Romans, then Byzantium, because next to the gate we have later fortifications added by the Byzantines. After the Byzantines, the Seljuk Turks, then the Ottoman Turks, and today the Turkish Republic. Moreover, it is clearly visible how the level of the city has improved. Well, we have the same thing in Krakow, for example. There used to be no stairs here. It’s just the original Roman pavement down there and the original entrance to the city. Well, the city is higher today. The old city in its form from Ottoman times, i.e. narrow streets and architecture that we have seen many times, for example in the Balkans. Well, everywhere where the Ottoman Empire once reached. Today, these houses, some very nicely renovated, and in fact most of them, house guesthouses, cafes and shops. We are going to a random place. In a place where the landscape will expand significantly. Hence we can best see why the Pergamonians founded the city in such a place. Well, because we have a bay, i.e. a natural port. And we have the great massif of the Taurus Mountains, which protect this place from the land side. That’s why it has such a long and wonderful history. An important city in Greek times. An important city in Roman times. An important city in Seljuk and Ottoman times. It is also important today. While here, it’s hard not to touch on the topic of döner kebab, because it’s not only a culinary topic. This is a historical topic. This is a sociological topic and a business topic. This is an absolute masterpiece, my dears. This place, i.e. Topçu Kebab, has been operating since 1885 and was opened shortly after the method of roasting meat over a grate was invented, i.e. not a horizontal, but a vertical grate that rotates. It was invented in Turkey at the end of the 19th century. I’ll soon order a solid portion and I’ll talk more about the food, because there really is something to talk about. I think that necessity was behind this invention, because such a grate provides much more space, and here there is less space. Well, a slightly different way. And it changed the culinary world also in our country. This vertical spit began to make a stunning career throughout the then Ottoman Empire. Also on its outskirts, in the areas of today’s Greece, the Middle East and Lebanon. And that’s how dishes such as gyros, shawarma, or the Mexican al pastor taco were created. Yes, because the Lebanese emigrated, a significant number of them, to Mexico and there they started toasting it with something called döner. Döner, i.e. something that rotates. Name from Turkish. Well, I have two classics in front of me, but before I talk about them, there’s another wave of kebab expansion. The 1970s. West Berlin and the local Turkish emigrants, often migrant workers. Well, they started making kebabs, but since it was much more difficult to open a place with tables, it was easier to have a stand, they came up with an idea of ​​how to serve it to go. To the paw. Well, just a booth, a rotating grill and something you get as fast food. And that’s how the kebab, döner, wrapped in dürüm, a tortilla-like cake, was created. Thin cake. Then they started putting the meat cut from the vertical grate into various other things, but as I said, this is a classic, my dears. Classic, the most Turkish thing possible. Not for tourists, i.e. meat, beef and lamb. Fatty lamb, because it is important that the fat absorbs the whole thing under the influence of temperature and gives it a characteristic aroma. It also soaks into the cake underneath the pide and I have nothing else here. I only have these pides permeated with the aroma of meat and meat. The meat is absolutely perfect. This is iskender kebab, which is the same thing only in homemade tomato sauce and yogurt. Also pide underneath. I also have grilled and more, vegetables, baked tomatoes, baked peppers, onion pieces. This is an appetizer, namely beans with tahini, tomato pieces and a hard-boiled egg. Well, my dears, today there is really no place in Poland… There is no city or town in Poland without a kebab. There may not be a restaurant there, but there is a kebab. Many people here make a living from it. From making kebabs. Many people here also make a living by describing what kebabs are like in a given place. To be honest, they usually have little in common with the original. Beyond this form, beyond the method of preparation. This is no chicken. It must be beef and lamb, and the hospitality of the people here is so great that they also brought us these skewers of minced lamb. I have ayran, of course, and I have something I’ve already eaten before. Something wonderful. Local, tiny, pickled peppers. So, the world of kebabs is big. Sometimes tasty. Much more often here than in Europe. And bringing good profits. In Germany alone, the value of the kebab market is estimated at EUR 7 billion per year. I don’t know how much I would have to have in my stomach to eat kebabs worth PLN 7 billion, but I will definitely eat them all. Finally, the main reason for visiting these sites, Antalya and the surrounding area by so many tourists, also from Poland. Of course, beaches. Beaches in various forms. This one is rocky, but there are also sandy ones. Well, simply the Turkish Riviera and endless sunbathing. I don’t want to take away your sunbathing, my dears, but remember that everything you saw today is within the reach of a few-hour trip at most, so enjoy the sunbathing, but add an element of history, cuisine and culture to it . Either way, enjoy your stay.