Heritage, Long Beach, CA (*, Green Star)

I’ve had consistently great meals at Heritage, both before and after they earned their Michelin Star—and their Michelin Green Star, too. It had been about a year since my last visit, and this return did not disappoint.

What I love about Heritage is how the cooking style remains straightforward yet elevated through excellent execution, ultra-fresh ingredients (some sourced from their own farm), and just enough innovation to keep things interesting.

The meal started with a selection of canapés and a small shot of mint tea with verjus and palo santo smoke—a sleeper hit among the four opening bites. The crab with nasturtium, English pea tart, and pickled pineapple were also a great way to prime the palate.

The beet salad was nicely balanced, featuring finely diced vegetables and tangy yogurt. The seared scallop was served in a buttery dashi sauce, accented by briny trout roe. The only miss in the meal was the sweetbread in lobster bisque, which could have used a bit more seasoning.

The fish course was emblematic of Heritage’s style: each component showcased ingredient quality and precision. The fish itself was moist with perfectly crisped skin, and the single mussel garnish was sweet, briny, and expertly cooked. The bit of artichoke heart included tasted exactly as fresh artichoke should—tender and clean.

But man, that steak. Aged, cooked to the absolute ideal temperature, beautifully sauced—and served with a rib chop bone to gnaw on, which was a fun surprise. I was seated at the counter and asked one of the chefs if everyone got that treat. Apparently, it's a little gift for counter diners only. Lucky me!

Desserts were also excellent. A scoop of crème fraîche ice cream with honey and sturgeon caviar had me moaning internally—it was that good. The stroopwafel was playful, filled with strawberry jam and a vanilla foie gras crémeux. And the tiny blood orange pâte de fruit was a perfect endnote to a meal that left me fully satisfied but not overstuffed.

If I had one critique, it would be the pacing. It seemed my dishes were being fired in sync with other tables throughout the restaurant. As a solo diner without pairings, I naturally finished faster than groups who were enjoying wine and conversation. The meal took about two hours, but there were moments I found myself staring at an empty place setting longer than I would have liked.

Also, I noticed the absence of the previous maître d’, Nicholas, whose presence I always appreciated. That said, the front-of-house team was warm, friendly, and attentive.

All in all, a thoroughly satisfying experience. I don’t think I’ll wait another year before coming back.