Ana María Cumsille is an Agronomical Engineer from the Universidad Mayor of Chile. She did a specialization in oenology from the Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile and obtained a Diplôme National D’œnologie (DNO) in Bordeaux, France.
She worked as a winemaker at Viña Altair in Cachapoal, where she was responsible for the production of wines like Altair and Sideral, as well as supporting their marketing. She also worked at Viña Indómita in Casablanca, overseeing the production of high-end white and red wines, according to her bio.
Furthermore, she worked in the Itata Valley, first as the winemaker in charge of Viña Cucha Cucha, where her primary goal was to rescue traditional local varieties such as País, Cinsault, and Moscatel de Alejandría.
In addition, she has gained experience in wineries in the United States (Franciscan Winery), France (Château La Louvière and Château Margaux) and at Los Vascos in Chile.
With over 20 years of professional experience and being named the “Winemaker Revelation of the Year” by Descorchados 2023 – the renowned Chilean wine guide led by journalist Patricio Tapia – Cumsille joined Viña Carmen in November 2023 as the chief winemaker to continue enhancing the winemaking legacy while contributing with an innovative perspective.
Said Jaime de la Barra, winegrowing director of Santa Rita Estates, the group to which Viña Carmen belongs, in a press release when the hire was announced, “We invited Ana María to be part of this project due to her extensive winemaking career, her experience in crafting high-end wines, the valuable contributions she has made to small producers and her innovative vision. An asset that will undoubtedly further enrich our entire team and winery.”
Chile has been producing wine since the mid-1500s, and there are many historic wineries in Chile that date back to the 19th century. The first and oldest is Viña Carmen, which was founded in 1850 by Christian Lanz and named in honor of his wife. It’s legacy includes being the place where the Carmenère grape variety was rediscovered.
In this interview, Cumsille offers insights into what drew her to Viña Carmen and what she is hopeful of accomplishing there.
Q, I read that you have been very involved in Viña Carmen’s continued commitment to reviving and redefining Carmenère in Chile – can you tell me more about the history of the variety in Chile and how you and Carmen continue to elevate it?
A, Carmenère is deeply tied to Viña Carmen’s identity. It was in our vineyards in Alto Jahuel where, in 1994, French ampelographer Jean-Michel Boursiquot discovered that what we believed to be Merlot was actually Carmenère — a variety lost to phylloxera in Europe. This discovery marked a turning point in Chilean viticulture. Since then, Carmen has led the way in its development, releasing the first wine labeled as Carmenère in 1996 under the name Carmen Gran Reserva Gran Vidure.
Chile is a long, narrow country, home to more than 300 wineries, 18 valleys and 85 appellations. One of those wineries is Viña Carmen, which sits in the foothills of the Andes.Viña Carmen
Over the past 30 years, we’ve gained a deep understanding of the variety. Carmenère is demanding, highly dependent on terroir and vineyard management. The Apalta Valley, with its granitic soils and warm climate, has proven to be an ideal match. Today, we are focused on showcasing its potential with elegance, texture, and depth, moving away from the overripe styles of the past to reveal a more precise and refined identity.
Q, How successful were you in rescuing those varieties, and why was that important to you?
A, Rather than “rescuing” a forgotten variety, what we’ve done is give it a future. Carmenère has become one of Chile’s signature grapes, and we’re proud that Viña Carmen played a key role in that journey. Preserving old vineyards, planting in the right places, and fine-tuning our techniques have allowed us to craft authentic wines with character and a strong sense of place.
Viña Carmen has adopted the French concept of grand cru vineyards. As winemaker Ana Maria Cumsille told thedrinksbusiness.com in a 2024 interview, the three key valleys of note for producing Carmen’s top-quality grapes are: Limarí in the north of the country, home to Chardonnay vineyards which produce Carmen’s grand cru sparkling wine; Alto Maipo, the home of its Cabernet Sauvignon vines; and further south, Apalta, which has ‘one of the best terroirs for Carmenere in Chile.’Viña Carmen
Q, Being at the oldest winery in Chile says plenty about ongoing quality and the ability to evolve. What else should my readers know about the legacy that the winery has built?
A, Viña Carmen is Chile’s first winery, founded in 1850, and since then has maintained a constant commitment to quality, innovation, and excellence. For over 170 years, it has successfully combined winemaking tradition with a pioneering spirit that keeps it current and at the forefront of the industry.
In 1994, in its own vineyards in Alto Jahuel, Carmenère was rediscovered, a variety that was believed to be extinct. This milestone marked a turning point in the history of Chilean wine and cemented Viña Carmen’s role as a key player in the revival of this grape.
That same year, Carmen became the first Chilean winery to produce an organic and sustainable wine line: Nativa. And in 1996, it released the country’s first wine labeled as Carmenère, under the name Grande Vidure within the Carmen Gran Reserva range.
In 2024, it became the first Chilean winery to produce a sparkling wine on Chiloé Island: Carmen DO Punta Chilen, the southernmost sparkling wine in Chile and one of the southernmost in the world.
Today, Viña Carmen is focused on ultra-premium and high-end wines that showcase the best expression of its terroirs, with brands such as Carmen Gold, Delanz, and Carmen DO. Its legacy is not only rooted in being the oldest winery in Chile, but in its ongoing ability to reinvent itself without losing its essence.
Q, What were a couple of your goals in taking the position there, and how successful have you been at achieving those?
One of my main goals upon joining Viña Carmen was to further enhance the expression of origin in each of our wines, making the most of the diverse terroirs we work with —from Limarí to Maule— while also developing new wines across different price segments and exploring varieties within our ultra-premium range.
Another important goal was to bring a perspective that combines the pursuit of excellence in high-end wines with an openness to innovation. At Carmen, I’ve found a unique space where I can explore both dimensions: working with iconic wines like Carmen Gold and other top-tier wines like Delanz, while also developing more experimental and innovative projects such as Carmen DO, in line with what I’ve been doing for years in my personal winemaking venture.
Ana María Cumsille said that one of her main goals upon joining Viña Carmen was to further enhance the expression of origin in each of our wines, ‘making the most of the diverse terroirs we work with.’Joaquin Vergara
Q, What are a few of the innovations that have been implemented to raise the bar in wine quality there?
A, Rather than focusing on technological innovations, we’ve aimed to honor the raw material and bring out its full potential. In the winery, we’ve begun working with amphorae, granite eggs, foudres, whole-cluster fermentation, and skin contact in whites — all of which represent new approaches in our winemaking process.
At the same time, we’re constantly pushing both geographical and stylistic boundaries. In 2024, we launched Carmen DO Punta Chilen, the first sparkling wine ever produced on Chiloé Island. It’s a limited-edition release that reflects our desire to explore new frontiers and challenge the limits of traditional winemaking.
We’re also introducing Delanz Chardonnay, a high-end white from the Limarí Valley that clearly expresses the freshness and minerality of this coastal terroir, defined by calcareous soils, the influence of the Atacama Desert, and proximity to the Pacific Ocean — all of which provide ideal growing conditions. Another example is Carmen VIGNO, born from our incorporation into the VIGNO association, which is dedicated to promoting and protecting Carignan from the dry-farmed interior of the Maule Valley. This project connects us with the viticultural heritage of the region and reinforces our commitment to origin, local identity, and tradition.
These innovations — in our methods, styles, and exploration of territory — allow us to continue raising the bar on quality and expanding what Carmen represents today.
Q, I understand the legacy of a producer such as Viña Carmen and wanting to maintain it. What’s involved in the other part, of adapting to modern consumers’ palate?
A, Although Carmen is Chile’s oldest winery, it has always been defined by its ability to reinvent itself. That adaptability is a core part of its identity. Today, it means listening to consumers who seek authentic wines with a strong sense of origin — but also freshness, balance, and energy.
At Viña Carmen, we craft wines that faithfully reflect the terroirs of Alto Jahuel, Apalta, and Limarí, with a clear and distinctive sense of place. At the same time, we develop lines designed to connect with today’s consumers, combining authenticity with more accessible styles tailored to a range of taste profiles.
Q, I don’t know that many of my readers are familiar with Carmen Gold. What has made it so appealing to judges and consumers?
A, Carmen Gold was one of Chile’s first icon wines. Its name was born in the 1980s, when our winemakers discovered a true “gold mine” in the vineyards of Alto Jahuel — a terroir recognized as one of the world’s best for producing Cabernet Sauvignon.
This wine reflects over 170 years of experience crafting Cabernet in the Maipo Valley. It is made exclusively from the best vineyard parcels, in a limited production of just 800 cases per vintage. It offers structure, freshness, depth, and an aging potential of over 20 years.
Carmen Gold stands out for its precision, elegance, and its ability to express the unique character of its origin.
Q, What has been the biggest attraction to you about winemaking as a career? What are a couple of the most challenging aspects of putting a harvest into the bottle over the span of months or several years?
A, What drew me most to wine was the unique combination of science, creativity, and emotion. Each vintage is different and requires making countless decisions that shape the character of the wine — from the vineyard to the bottle.
One of the biggest challenges is accepting that not everything can be controlled: the weather, ripening times, what happens in the winery. It takes patience, constant observation, and the ability to adapt. But when everything comes together and, years later, you open a bottle that tells a story… that’s the true meaning of this work.