Massachusetts restaurants offer a passage to Peru and Portugal
At Tambo 22 in Chelsea and Baleia in the South End, you can dine around the world without leaving the Commonwealth
Updated: 8:10 PM EDT Sep 13, 2024
TOUGH ASSIGNMENT. TAMBO, 22, IS A PASSAGE TO PERU IN CHELSEA RIDE ALONG ROUTES ONE AND 16. I ALWAYS WANTED TO OPEN A RESTAURANT IN CHELSEA. I SAW THAT THERE WERE A LOT OF PEOPLE THAT WERE LOOKING FOR GOOD FOOD, CHEF JOSE DUARTE WAS BORN IN PERU AND NOW CALLS CHELSEA HOME. HIS INTIMATE AND RUSTIC DINING DESTINATION IS THE BEST OF BOTH OF HIS WORLDS. THE TAMBOS WERE PLACES THAT WERE MEANT TO FED PEOPLE AND TO PEOPLE TO REST. THE TAMBO STRUCTURE, BUILT BY THE INCANS DATES BACK CENTURIES. THIS MORE MODERN EDIFICE, AT 22 ADAMS STREET, STRIVES TO OFFER THE SAME CONCEPT OF REFUGE AND REPLENISHMENT. I’VE ALWAYS EATEN PERUVIAN FOOD. I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN PASSIONATE ABOUT IT, AND IT’S PART OF MY CULTURE. IT’S PART OF WHAT I AM. I FEEL THAT THAT’S SOMETHING THAT I COULD SHARE WITH PEOPLE. THE FOOD ALSO OFFERS DUARTE AN OPPORTUNITY TO DISH OUT SOME OF PERU’S RICH HISTORY COURSES, A DISH THAT STARTED ACTUALLY WHEN PERU HAD A WAR AGAINST CHILE. THE SOLDIERS NEEDED FOOD. SO THESE LADIES WERE GOING AROUND ASKING FOR FOOD FOR THE CAUSE OF THE PERUVIAN SOLDIERS. BECAUSE OF COURSE, THEY BUILT THIS SORT OF SHEPHERD’S PIE WITH ALL THESE LAYERS, AND THEY FED THE SOLDIERS WITH THAT. DUARTE’S DECONSTRUCTED COURSE, THE TRIO IS SERVED WITH SHRIMP, CRAB AND OCTOPUS. THERE’S ALSO THE LOMO SALTADO, A BEEF TENDERLOIN STIR FRY, THE SPICY AMAZONICO, A FRESHWATER FISH WRAPPED IN A BANANA LEAF, AND OF COURSE, CEVICHE. THIS HAS GOT AND REFRESHING. ONE OF THE THINGS THAT I REALLY, REALLY, REALLY EMPHASIZE IS GOOD FOOD. IT CAN BE EATEN UNDER A TREE IN A FIELD, BUT IF THE FOOD IS GOOD, THAT’S WHAT I’M LOOKING FOR. FOR ME, THERE IS NO MIDDLE POINT. IT’S GOT TO BE GOOD, PERIOD, PERIOD, PERIOD. WALTHAM. WELCOME TO BEL-AIR, WHERE A TASTE OF PORTUGAL IS NESTLED IN BOSTON’S SOUTH END. I KNOW A LOT ABOUT PORTUGUESE CULINARY, SO I WAS VERY HAPPY TO FIND SOME ITEMS IN THE MENU THAT I COULD, YOU KNOW, RELATE TO CULTURALLY. HERE, THE AROMA OF FRESHLY BAKED PORTUGUESE BREAD AND SIMMERING SPICES ARE TRANSPORTING GUESTS TO THE COUNTRY’S SUN KISSED SHORES. THE SANTA LUCIA, NAMED AFTER THIS BEACH THAT’S FAMOUS FOR ITS BEAUTIFUL SUNSETS. EVERY DISH TELLS A STORY FULL OF FLAVOR AND TRADITION, MANY OF WHICH WERE UNCOVERED THROUGH TRAVEL. SO THE CONCEPT WAS INSPIRED BY A COUPLE TRIPS TO PORTUGAL, AND WE WANTED TO BRING THE FLAVORS OF PORTUGAL, HIGHLIGHT PORTUGUESE FOOD IN A MODERN NEW WAY WITH USING NEW ENGLAND INGREDIENTS, CHEF AND PARTNER ANDREW HEBERT HAS WRITTEN A LOVE LETTER TO PORTUGAL THROUGH DISHES LIKE CATAPLANA, WHICH IS A SEAFOOD STEW THAT IS INSPIRED BY A TRADITIONAL DISH FROM THE ALGARVE REGION OF PORTUGAL. WE ALSO HAVE OUR PIRI PIRI CHICKEN, WHICH IS VERY POPULAR. SERVE IT WITH FRENCH FRIES, WHICH IS A VERY TRADITIONAL WAY OF SERVING IT. THE MENU ALSO FEATURING DISHES LIKE OCTOPUS CARPACCIO AND SAUTEED SHRIMP PLATES, ARE MEANT TO CREATE A COMMUNAL CULINARY EXPERIENCE. IT’S JUST A LOT OF SHARE, SHARE, SHARE. SO FOOD JUST KIND OF COMES AS IT’S READY AND PEOPLE ARE JUST, YOU KNOW, PASSING PLATES AROUND THE TABLE. AND WHEN IT COMES TO COCKTAILS AND WINE, THE THEME CONTINUES. IT WAS KIND OF LIKE, WELL, WE’RE FEATURING A HEAVILY PORTUGUESE INSPIRED MENU. I JUST THOUGHT, WHAT A BETTER WAY TO TO COMPLEMENT THE FOOD IS TO JUST FEATURE A PORTUGUESE WINE LIST. PEOPLE IN WINE DIRECTOR TONY MORENO ON CURATING HER LIST. THE WINES IN FRONT OF ME ARE KIND OF NEAR AND DEAR TO MY HEART. IN PARTICULAR, I REMEMBER HAVING THIS WINE AND THINKING, THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST DELICIOUS THINGS I’VE EVER TASTED. THE JEWEL OF THE JEWEL OF MARRAKESH. YOU GOT IT. THANK YOU. MORENO SAYS MANY GUESTS START WITH A COCKTAIL AND THEN TRANSITION TO WINE OVER THE COURSE OF THEIR MEAL. BUT THE PORTUGUESE INFLUENCE ISN’T JUST FOUND IN THE FOOD. AND DRINK. THE AMBIANCE ENCHANTS AS WELL. A LOT OF ARCHES. AND THEN AT NIGHT, WHEN THE LIGHTS GO DOWN, WE HAVE THIS SORT OF GLOW IN THE RESTAURANT. THEY SORT OF JUST REMINDS ME OF LIKE A SUNSET IN PORTUGAL. AND BELLAGIO IS PART OF THE CODA RESTAURANT GROUP, WHICH ALSO RUNS SRB IN THE SOUTH END. SALTY PIG IN BACK BAY AND GUFO IN CAMBRIDGE. THE WINE DIRECTOR TOLD US THE GROUP DOESN’T HAVE A SOMMELIER. THEY STRESS WINE EDUCATION WITH ALL THE WAIT STAFF BECAUSE THEY’RE THE ONES WITH THE GUESTS FROM START TO FINISH AND THE GUESTS SHOULD TRUST THEM WITH THE FOOD AND WINE RECOMMENDATIONS. AND BACK TO TOMBO, 22. THE CHEF, JOSE DUARTE, LOOKS FAMILIAR. YOU MAY REMEMBER HIM FROM TORONTO IN THE NORTH END RESTAURANT. HE RAN WITH HIS WIFE FOR 20 YEAR
Massachusetts restaurants offer a passage to Peru and Portugal
At Tambo 22 in Chelsea and Baleia in the South End, you can dine around the world without leaving the Commonwealth
Updated: 8:10 PM EDT Sep 13, 2024
Tambo 22 is a passage to Perú, specifically the city of Chelsea. Chef José Duarte was born in Perú and now calls Chelsea home; his intimate and rustic dining destination, right along Routes 1 and 16, is the best of both of his worlds.Tucked away in Boston’s South End is Baleia, a restaurant where a taste of Portugal comes to life. At Baleia, the aroma of freshly baked Portuguese bread and simmering spices are transporting guests to the country’s sun-kissed shores. Even the wine list is strictly Portuguese!
CHELSEA, Mass. —
Tambo 22 is a passage to Perú, specifically the city of Chelsea. Chef José Duarte was born in Perú and now calls Chelsea home; his intimate and rustic dining destination, right along Routes 1 and 16, is the best of both of his worlds.
Tucked away in Boston’s South End is Baleia, a restaurant where a taste of Portugal comes to life. At Baleia, the aroma of freshly baked Portuguese bread and simmering spices are transporting guests to the country’s sun-kissed shores. Even the wine list is strictly Portuguese!