What an amazing meal, head and shoulders above the other one star places I've been to. I had a mushroom free tasting menu, but that was only one change to the normal tasting menu.
Lamb broth, pork and fennel salami, fermented celeriac and carrots
Brioche soaked in beef custard, beef tartare, chilli oil, coal oil, chive emulsion, smoked shaved ox heart
Cured bream with lemon verbena and elderflower vinegar, fennel pollen, dashi gel, pickled turnip, smoked scallop roe
Sourdough, cultured butter with wild garlic powder, flowers and wild garlic honey
Asparagus puree, asparagus pesto, bbqd asparagus, wild garlic leaves, killeen (Gouda style goats cheese) sauce, hazelnuts in mushroom essence and miso
Celeriac puree, celeriac Sabayon, scallop, spruce honey
Cod in black miso butter, caramelised cauliflower puree, parsley veloute split with parsley oil and with pickled parsley stems, airated mussel sauce made with champagne
Salt aged Lamb loin roasted on the boan, faggot from the heart, sheeps yoghurt, lamb sauce. Fermented potato flat bread, braised lamb belly, fermented rhubarb ketchup, more sheeps yoghurt
Vegetable raisin (beetroot and celeriac dried and rehydrated in peach leaf syrup) brioche, peach leaf syrup, cote hill blue
Rosemary crumb, pieces of rhubarb, rhubarb sorbet, reduced rhubarb sauce, rhubarb root oil, hay cream
White chocolate mousse, Douglas fir granita, Blackened beetroot peaso, caramelised white chocolate disc
Elderflower tart baked like a treacle tart, using the left overs of bread from previous courses, creme fraiche, Woodruff powder
Service was amazing, relaxed yet attentive and really knowledgeable. I was worried before hand that there would be too much fermented and pickled flavours, but they balanced it nicely. Some of the preserved elements were outstanding (wild garlic fermented honey, coal oil, chilli oil were stand outs)
Three good beers as well, brewed locally and in conjunction with the restaurant, each different and using herbs as well as hops to add flavour. An amazing meal, worth the money but definitely a treat.
by TheYorkshireSaint
3 Comments
one of my favourites. It’s been years since i’ve been but very fond memories- not a single duff course and lots of good ones. Your meal looks stunning.
Nice review! I am glad that you enjoyed it as it was one of the better meals I had during my time in York. Still I am surprised that they do have a michelin star, though maybe I caught them on an off night, or maybe I should have tried a different menu. hmmm. 🙂
I was there a few weeks ago, when I was in town to see Krapp’s Last Tape, and thought that for a Michelin star restaurant, it was one of the more uninspiring meals I’ve had in a while. Not awful by any stretch, but nothing terribly memorable either. At the time it struck me as though someone asked an AI chatbot what a Michelin menu would look like, and that’s what came out. Fermented, check. Pickled, check. Spruce, check. I did not ask them if their Peaso (served with Douglas Fir (check), and white chocolate, was cribbed directly from the commercially available elderflower peaso from Noma ([Elderflower Peaso | Noma Projects · Noma Projects](https://nomaprojects.com/products/elderflower-peaso-miso?variant=49293025116500)), though it wouldn’t surprise me if it was.
I did appreciate the earnestness of the servers. They were all very sweet, thoughtful, polite, and attentive but also seemed to have memorized the same script for the menu and wine list.
If I am ever back in york, I’d probably go back there, but I dont think that it’s necessarily worth a detour.
They look fantastic, I can taste these pictures!