Cured in Marble: Lardo di Colonnata
In Maremma, the sun-scorched southern frontier of Tuscany, Tucci compares the landscape to “Italy’s Wild West.” Here he meets the butteri—local ranchers who tend to a herd of 500 Maremmana cattle once reserved for Tuscan royalty—at the sprawling 11,000-acre Tenuta di Alberese. The conversation peaks over a thick, dry-aged steak, seared alfresco without spices. Stefano, the head buttero, explains that the cows are never stressed and constantly on the move, which contributes to their exceptional, natural flavor. Sliced hot off the grill and drizzled with olive oil, the steak is served simply, with a single slice of bread.
A Fusion Future at Ciblèo
Back in Florence, Tucci revisits lampredotto—but this time, in a form that upends 800 years of tradition. After a stroll through the city’s produce market with Giulio Picchi, a restaurateur known for his “provocative vision for Tuscan food,” Tucci takes a seat at the counter of Ciblèo, a restaurant established by Giulio’s father, Fabio Picchi. Here, there’s no bread in sight. Instead, Giulio serves a daring Tuscan-Asian fusion menu that includes fried spinach fritti (spinach coated in chickpea flour), a lampredotto meatball dressed with miso and yuzu, and katsuobushi—smoked, dried bonito—meant to mimic a slice of prosciutto, layered over cheese and served on toast. Chopsticks come out for a main of grilled swordfish with smoked butter and flat green beans charred over coals. Then, it’s back to hands for the final dish: a Japanese-inspired ossobuco made with raw swordfish bone marrow over braised lamb shank. Gesturing toward the chef behind the counter, Tucci declares, “He’s a genius.”