SF is packed with Italian restaurants—especially ones where a fist-sized serving of seasonal cappelletti and some fancy focaccia will set you back $45. And then there are old-school spots that have stuck to the basics for decades. Because sometimes, you just want to drown in red sauce, say “when” to an arm-length pepper grinder, and drink water out of a goblet. At these classic institutions, you’ll find all that and more.

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