Chef Theo Engassner, with a recently published cookbook that was inspired by Thursdays with Theo. Photo by Peggy Reineck.
by PEGGY REINECK
A little over a year ago, I did something that, looking back, might’ve bordered on stalking. I walked down the road in Juddville, knocked on a stranger’s door, and asked if he’d consider teaching a cooking class. That man was Chef Theo Engassner.
But the story really began with my neighbor, Chris Cramer. I told him about a dream I had: to create a space where people could come together to cook with chefs from around the world. I had just renovated a house with a second kitchen and wanted to invite chefs to stay, host events, and connect people through food. Chris said Theo, the previous owner of Villagios, was an incredible Austrian chef who spent years cooking in Chicago.
“His sauces were amazing, and I always loved the chicken ripieno,” Chris said.
So when the kitchen was finished, I took a deep breath, knocked on Theo’s door, and asked if he’d do a class. He said yes.
That first class, with just a few friends, lit a spark. I was struck by Theo’s culinary expertise. Instead of jumping into more, I quickly pressed pause. I realized I wanted to learn for myself before offering the experience to others.
Theo and his partner, Ella, agreed to let me cook with them weekly, and we started calling it Thursdays with Theo. What began as curiosity turned into one of the most meaningful experiences of my life.
At first, we cooked random things like brisket. Then we moved on to steak with one of the sauces they used to serve at the bistro. When I asked where the recipes were, Theo explained they were all written for restaurant-sized portions and hadn’t been used in years. I said, “Let’s make them—and I’ll compile a cookbook.”
That kicked off a year-long project.
Each Thursday, Theo would cook, and I’d write down every step. At our next session, I’d cook the same dish with him watching, coaching me through the details. We weren’t just trying to capture recipes. We wanted to create a book anyone could follow to make gourmet meals at home.
But the more we cooked, the more I realized I couldn’t keep up.
I had been thinking about applying to Le Cordon Bleu for five years. Theo’s calm confidence gave me the push I needed. So I applied. I told myself, “Julia Child was a tall, loud American, too – it worked for her. Maybe it’ll work for me too.”
It was exhilarating – and humbling.
I was a 50-plus woman with no restaurant experience, surrounded by young chefs with Michelin dreams. The pace was insane. Early on, I called Theo in distress.
“I can’t do this. It’s too fast. I don’t even know where to start.”
Theo replied with his three golden rules:
“Write a task list,” he said. “Mise en place [everything in its place]. Then cook; first things first.”
It became my mantra.
Feedback was blunt. On one dish, the chef dragged a fork across my plate and said, “The julienne should be 1 millimeter by 1 millimeter by 5 centimeters.” I got a 2.7 out of 5 – technically failed because of 1 millimeter!
I called Theo again, defeated.
“I can’t even hold my knife the way they want,” I said.
“Did you cut your hand?” he asked.
“No.”
“Then your technique’s fine.”
And we laughed – hard.
That’s how Theo is. Encouraging. Unpretentious. And deeply experienced.
One day, I was venting about how the MOF chefs (Meilleurs Ouvriers de France – basically, the Navy SEALs of French cooking) wouldn’t even let us use the same stairs while they were on break during a mock competition. Theo pulled out a massive orange ribbon and chain.
“This,” he said, “is from the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs.”
I had no idea what that meant. Turns out, it’s one of the oldest and most prestigious culinary organizations in the world. Founded in 1248. You don’t apply – you’re invited. And Theo? He never mentioned it.
That’s when it clicked: Theo wasn’t just the real deal. He was the kind of real deal who didn’t need to say so.
Don’t take my word for it – come see for yourself!
Join us on Saturday, June 8, at 1 pm at Write On, Door County for a cooking demo and stories from the kitchen.
Theo’s American Bistro: The Dishes That Defined Us in Door County is available for preorder at doorcountyhiddenkitchen.com.
What started with a knock on a neighbor’s door became a friendship, a cookbook, and a reminder of what makes Door County so special. Stories like this aren’t unusual here – you never know who’s just down the road or what you’ll learn until you venture out. In this case, it was an Austrian chef and his partner, Ella, quietly living in Juddville, with years of stories and skills to share.