Americans have been putting their own spin on pizza for decades. The latest iteration at HomeSlyce Pizza Bar borrows from the Middle East and has journeyed to Howard County after getting established in Baltimore.
Haluk Kantar, the owner of the Turkish restaurant Cazbar in Mount Vernon, had a vision while serving the restaurant’s pide (pronounced “pee-day”), boat-shaped crusts with Mediterranean fillings like falafel. He realized the dish could be translated into our popular tomato-sauced pies.
The restaurateur opened the first HomeSlyce in Federal Hill in 2012, quickly following with restaurants in Mount Vernon, Canton and, in December, Columbia.
Diehards will still be able to find traditional pizzas, from build-your-own to “premium” combos. But the star of the menu is the “slyce,” a crust folded like a canoe with the toppings in the cargo hold. It’s considered a personal pizza, but, at 10 inches long, can be shared.
HomeSlyce isn’t limited to pizza. There are also several Mediterranean-influenced appetizers on the menu, including baba ghanoush, hummus and spinach pie, plus everyday favorites like nachos and wings. Salads, soups, calzones, sandwiches and desserts round out the menu.
Kantar plans to expand his HomeSlyce concept, although he is not disclosing exact locations. “Our goal is to open many,” he says. “It was kind of a hobby, and we didn’t know if it would work. It worked out great.”
We knew this was not going to be just another suburban pizza shop when we saw the retro wooden seats lined up in front of the restaurant for waiting guests. In the foyer, a vintage typewriter was perched on a steamer trunk for another step back in time. Farther inside, an industrial vibe of wood, brick and metal, accompanied by knickknacks like a giant stop sign, gives the place a comfortable, fun ambiance.
Because the restaurant is an evolution of Cazbar, there are several Mediterranean dishes on the menu. We started with wickedly good baba ghanoush ($6.95), a mounded mix of roasted eggplant puree, garlic and tahini, served with fresh slices of rustic bread. The plate of marinated mixed olives ($5.99), with pits removed, was also a great snack.
The restaurant’s namesake, the “slyce” pizza, was described by our waitress as “not as bready as a calzone.” You can build your own or try a suggested combo. We really liked the “strongman meat classic” ($13.93), which was packed with pepperoni, bacon, salami and sausage atop tomato sauce and smothered with mozzarella. There are traditional pizzas, too. From the sandwich list, we were happy with our portobello mushroom stack of roasted peppers, spinach, caramelized onions, sun-dried tomatoes and mushroom chunks, served warm on deliciously thin, crunchy bread. It came with a small green salad and side of handcut, baked fries and the restaurant’s captivating “yummy, yummy” sauce, a mayo-based mix with chipotle chili and Buffalo hot sauce.
There’s a connected bar with mod stools and a few high-top tables for diners. Wherever you sit, you can get a custom soda made with all-natural syrups like green apple, mango, blueberry and even cotton candy and cucumber. The modest wine list suits most tastes, with Prosecco, white Zinfandel, Spanish tempranillo and California cab. Cocktails like the Slyce julep and a variety of brews are also available.
Our waitress was friendly and helpful. She graciously answered our questions about the menu and accommodated us with several to-go boxes and a carrying bag at the end.
Whatever you do, make sure to order the mini Nutella calzone ($5.59). The house-made pastry is a wonderful use of the kitchen’s dough. In this golden form, a thin, sweet crust coated with Nutella cocoa spread wraps around a filling of strawberries, bananas and mascarpone cheese for a burst of delicious flavor. The shell of a cannoli ($4.75), however, was too brittle for its delicate mascarpone filling.
Originally Published: April 6, 2016 at 7:34 PM EDT