Mary Earl
| Special to the Kitsap Sun
Where in the world to find wines that are big and bold, but also a bargain? South America would be a good bet, but the wine region I’m thinking of is in Western Europe.
With over 250 different grape varieties and a noteworthy range of geological and climatic differences throughout this diminutive country, Portugal is a great wine region to explore for red and white wine bargains.
But this is not about the world-renowned fortified Port or Madeira but everyday whites such as Vinho Verde and Alvarinho (Albarino) and dry, blended red table wines that are big, approachable and so reasonably priced a case could be in your future.
Even though it’s on the small side compared to other European wine producing countries, Portugal has a wide variety of climates. On the northern border with Spain, it’s cool and wet along the Atlantic. In the middle, there are mountains, terraced vineyards and deep valleys. To the south, hot, dry plains spread over the landscape.
Top regions to explore are the Douro Valley (famous for reds made with traditional grapes), Vinho Verde (home to refreshing white wines), Lisboa (with its rolling hills along the coast), Alentejo in the southeast (easily the largest of Portugal’s wine regions) and Dão – Portugal’s best kept secret.
The first high point in Portuguese winemaking began in earnest in the late 17th century when Britain found a sweet, fortified wine that satisfied the English palate. This new interest had everything to do with the usual “difficulties” between France and England at the time.
The British went all in on Port which is why today most port houses have British sounding names such as Cockburn, Dow’s, Graham’s, Taylor Fladgate, Croft, Broadbent, Gould Campbell, Offley, and Warre.
In the past few years, Portuguese winemakers have begun producing high-quality dry wines and even the Port producers are diversifying in this direction by purchasing vineyards in one of the other 13 wine regions.
I’ve been enjoying the dry red and whites from Portugal for some time now. Although hard to find, they do reward you for the search. And to my delight one of the port houses recently held a webinar on their acquisition of vineyards and wineries that excel in full bodied, balanced table wines.
Established in 1692, the Taylor Fladgate Port house became The Fladgate Partnership centuries later. It now includes the Port houses of Croft, Krohn and Fonseca. Last year they acquired a company with holdings in Vinho Verde, Dão and Bairrada with total annual production of more than 65,000 cases.
The expansion gives the Port giant another 500 acres of vineyards and multiple wineries outside of the Douro Valley. With this purchase, they can continue to use their Douro Valley grapes for Port only.
The purchase of established vineyards and wineries include: Quinta da Pedra in Alto Minho which has a stunning Alvarinho and Paço de Palmeira with an equally stunning white made from the Loureiro grape.
In the Dão region, Quinta de Bella has 124 acres planted to Alfrocheiro, Baga, Jaen (Mencia in Spain), Rufete, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Roriz (Spain’s Tempranillo).
In the Bairrada region, home to Baga wine, you’ll also find planting of Alfrocheiro, Aragonez (also Tempranillo), Bastardo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Jaen, Merlot, Syrah, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional.
The Dão is perhaps Portugal’s most exciting wine region at the moment. Surrounded by mountains on three sides, rivers and granite soils, this region has a history of producing fine red wines from a range of indigenous grapes. The Dão is also home to Encruzado, a white grape that produces white wines that can age gracefully. Still on the lookout for that white.
Because Portuguese wines are not on most people’s radar, they offer more bang for the buck. So, here are a few that I’ve found very much to my liking this past summer.
First and foremost is Vinho Verde, the region in northern Portugal that produces mainly white wines but also rosés and reds. All in an easy summer sipping style.
Vinho Verde is actually a wine region and not a type of wine made with green grapes. The region is characterized by high rainfall and an Atlantic-influenced climate with nine subregions. The main production is 85% white with grape varieties of Alvarinho, Arinto, Avesso, Azal, Loureiro and Trajadura.
Typically, young when released, the fresh fruit flavors are usually low in alcohol (7 – 10%) and have a refreshing spritz. But there are also whites that are a bit heftier but more difficult to find like Alvarinho which is the Portuguese name for the Albariño grape. Try São Concalo Vinho Verde from Grocery Outlet or Espiral Vinho Verde from Trader Joe’s – both under $5 and both perfect appetizer wines.
Some of my favorite Portuguese reds could very easily make excellent pairings for fall stews. Most I found at Grocery Outlet and all under $10.
Guada Rios Vinho Tinto is a great (two out of three stars) blend of Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouchet. This delicious red from Alentejano was fermented in stainless steel and aged 8 months in oak.
Quinta de S. Sebastião Mina Velha Reserva is another blend of Portuguese and French grapes from the Lisboa region. The blend from the hillside vineyards is Syrah, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional. Extended maceration and six months in French oak give this wine depth and elegance.
Gaios Tinto from the Douro is another two-star wine in my estimation. And not surprisingly, another blend. This time Tinta Barroca (which is supposed to be Zin-like), Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional. This intense dark berry nose and flavors has hints of baking spices and smooth tannins.
Feuerheerd’s Douro Reserva is a blend of the traditional Port grapes, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Feuerheerd was established in 1815 by the German trader Dietrich Feuerheerd who built a distinguished reputation for producing exceptional Ports. This dry red wine is aged for 2 months in carefully selected old Port barrels, enhancing complexity and smoothing out the tannins.
And one more for good measure! Forte de S. Sebastião Vinho Tinto from the Lisboa region was formerly a fort that protected Lisbon from the French in the early 19th century. The ocean breezes and clay-limestone soil are characteristic of this region. Uncharacteristically, this is not blended but 100% Touriga Nacional. This juicy, blackberry flavored wine aged in French oak expresses pure Touriga Nacional for you.
Mary Earl has been educating Kitsap wine lovers for a couple of decades, is a longtime member of the West Sound Brew Club and can pair a beer or wine dinner in a flash. She volunteers for the Clear Creek Trail and is a longtime supporter of Silverdale.