Capri’s extravagant, super-yacht excess is all part of its allure, but there’s so much more to explore beyond its bougie veneer, like swimming in turquoise waters, hiking serpentine trails, and traipsing around the historical ruins. And, of course, the food.

Leisurely meals fueled by ravioli capresi and heaping plates of seafood, sunset apertivo hour, and post-meal desserts and digestivos are all par for the course—when life gave Capri lemons, they handed them to someone’s nonna who bathed them in booze and sugar and turned them into limoncello, served up ice-cold. Read on for the best restaurants around the island, and keep in mind that even though dinner kicks off around 8pm, most locals don’t sit down until at least 10pm.

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