The International Gastronomy and Wine Centre in Dijon celebrated its third anniversary last month with a selection of 200 regional cheeses and a 15-litre bottle of Burgundy.
Not everyone was in a festive spirit, however. Critics say the food-based theme park is running into difficulties born of the ruinous battle between different cities to be crowned as the capital of cuisine.
Three of the restaurants in Dijon’s food park, including the exclusive La Table des Climats, have been placed in receivership. Its luxury hotel is empty, the builder having gone into liquidation before it even opened. Visitor numbers are said to be disappointing and the food court has been rejected by many locals as overpriced.
The centre had about 830,000 visitors last year, most of whom were passing through on their way home
ARNAUD FINISTRE/AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES
The theme park has its roots in Unesco’s acceptance of a French attempt for its gastronomy to be awarded world heritage status in 2010, which included a pledge to create a network of museums honouring the country’s culinary traditions.
At the time, mayors were desperate to be given the right to build one. They thought it would bring international renown and an influx of tourists, while the city with the biggest food park would be recognised as the capital of cuisine, settling a debate that has divided the country for centuries.
The government gave four cities the go-ahead: Lyons, famed for its quenelles and its saucisson brioché, Tours, known for cheeses such as Chavignol and Selles-sur-Cher; Dijon, the home of beef bourguignon, eggs poached in red wine and snails with garlic and parsley; and Paris, said to be the cradle of such delicacies as onion soup, croissants and croque monsieur.
All the projects have gone off the rails. Lyons’ International Centre of Gastronomy, which cost €14.5 million, opened in 2019 but closed less than a year later after running into financial difficulties. It is now a conference centre. The one in Tours, which cost €2.7 million, ended up as a low-key centre for research and conferences on food. Paris’s food centre has been delayed and is due to open in 2027 at a cost of €65 million.
Dijon is the home of beef bourguignon
ALAMY
Dijon’s 70,000 square metre food park was the most ambitious. The project, dreamt up by the city’s socialist council, cost €250 million, including at least €15.5 million of taxpayer money, and includes exhibition space, restaurants, shops, a cinema and workshops.
One exhibition features photographs of French families eating and a quiz on visitors’ gastronomic knowledge. The aim is to encourage them to eat and drink well, the park says. “Explore the art of laying a table and the manner in which language is shaped by the French passion for cuisine,” the website says.
The centre, which hoped to attract one million visitors a year, had about 830,000 last year — and most of those were simply walking through it on their way home, according to local media. Only a minority stopped to eat or drink in the food court, the wine bar — which has 3,000 bottles — or one of the restaurants. A total of 120,000 people went to the exhibitions.
“The project is damaged,” said Emmanuel Bichot, a centre-right opposition councillor. “It’s sinking. We have to go back to the drawing board in a more modest way.”
Dijon’s council refutes the criticism and says the theme park will prove a success after initial difficulties. Richard Viemont, who runs the food court, conceded it had been “viewed badly” by locals when it opened, mainly because of the prices. However, he said they were making changes so it would become “accessible and open to all”.