WITH so many eateries in York, you could try a different one every time you dined out – and still never get around them all.
Forking out for a meal somewhere new is a gamble and can be disappointing if it doesn’t live up to the hype. So, when my parents visited – always a special occasion due to the 280-mile distance between us – we didn’t want to take risks; we simply wanted good food, in lovely surroundings, without feeling short changed.
The choice for me was simple. Rustique – the authentic French bistro-style restaurant that opened in Castlegate in 2005 – has been consistently good whenever I’ve visited over the years and has a varied menu so I was confident it would tick the box for the three generations making up our party of six.
Rustique has been in Castlegate since 2005 (Image: Nadia Jefferson-Brown)The setting itself is beautiful in a red-stone building with ornate stained-glass windows. The interior underwent a full refit in 2022 including a new bar, light fittings, soft furnishings, and French-influenced artwork along the walls. Even the toilets are to be admired.
We sat upstairs at a corner table next to a window and took our time over the lengthy menu.
There is an A La Carte menu full of French classics from slow-cooked pork belly to beef bourguignon as well as a set menu (available at certain times) which is incredibly reasonable and boasts plenty of options, at £23.95 for two courses and £27.95 for three.
Five of us plumped for the set menu while my eldest went off-piste and ordered from the A La Carte as a mini celebration for having just finished school.
Our starters included the classic French onion soup – a hearty, piping-hot serving that was a hit with my mum who liked the rich flavours from the beef stock, sweet onions and seasoning, and the tasty cheesy croutons.
The lamb kofta starter; a celebratory cocktail and the coriander and leman crab cake starter (Image: Nadia Jefferson-Brown) My dad had no complaints about his melted goat’s cheese which came on delicate crispy croutons. His verdict: smooth and creamy cheese with a pleasant tangy taste, paired well with a balsamic glaze and mixed leaves.
Two of our group had the minced lamb kofta and agreed it was full of flavour, enhanced by the accompanying minted yoghurt and served with lightly toasted flatbread.
I ordered the coriander and lemon crab cake which was pretty as a picture. If I were being picky, I would’ve preferred more texture in the smooth filling, but I liked the distinct crab flavour and crispy coating which worked well with the warming side of chilli salsa and baby salad.
Read our latest restaurant reviews:
My eldest had six snails cooked in a garlic and parsley butter from the A La Carte (£9.95) and quickly got to grips with the pincer tong to hold each shell while he picked out the small morsels with a forked prong. He liked the texture which was meaty and slightly chewy and happily soaked up the rest of the garlic butter with French bread.
Our set menu mains included the mushroom risotto, steak frites, mussels and Rustique burger.
My fried rump steak was very good – medium rare and cooked to perfection: juicy and tender, and served with a thick, creamy mushroom sauce (other options were available) along with plenty of hot, crispy fries.
The mussels were plentiful and cooked in white wine, garlic, herbs and cream. My husband said they were meaty – without any offending grit – and served with crusty bread. He ordered a side of fries, but it was a fairly meagre portion for the price (£4.75). We wouldn’t ordinarily complain but in the interests of a fair review, we flagged this with the waiting staff who replaced the dish with another that was piled high without hesitation.
My mum said the risotto was tasty and well seasoned – though more mushrooms would’ve been welcome while my youngest had the Rustique burger, which was pan fried and served in a brioche bun with salad, a tasty sauce and a brie cheese topping. He made quick work of it, reflecting how good he thought it was.
The 16oz Himalayan rib eye steak was not for the faint-hearted (Image: Nadia Jefferson-Brown) Staying off-piste, my eldest indulged in the 16oz Himalayan salt-aged rib eye steak on the bone, served with a generous portion of fries and choice of sauce (£34.95). It was huge, and not for the faint-hearted. Cooked medium rare, it was tender and succulent paired well with a peppercorn sauce with whole peppercorns that exploded as you bit into them.
Onto desserts, the cheese board with its selection of French varieties, apple, grapes, mixed leaves, and crusty French bread, was the perfect, if filling, end for my husband and Dad, neither of whom have a sweet tooth.
At the other end of the sweet spectrum, my eldest and I had the sticky toffee pudding, a generous serving of deliciously rich scrumptiousness, with a caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream.
Sticky toffee pudding for people with a sweet tooth (Image: Nadia Jefferson-Brown) My youngest had the chocolate pot – a Rustique classic – and said the thick-set chocolate ganache that filled a ramekin was like ‘thick mousse’, accompanied by a lovely shortbread and creme fraiche.
Creme brulee is my mum’s favourite – even though she’s often disappointed. However, on this occasion, she declared the Rustique dish the best she’s had. High praise indeed – our waitress proudly told us they were fresh on site.
We all felt like we’d over indulged but were suitably content and agreed we’d happily go back to try the rest of the menu.
Our verdict: A lovely atmosphere in a stylish setting, with consistently good food.
Food: Authentic and delicious.
Service: Attentive and efficient.
Ambience: Relaxed and friendly.
Value: The set menu is very good value for the quality and variety on offer.
Reviews are independent and meals paid for by The Press
Address: Rustique, Castlegate, York
Telephone number: 01904 612744
Website: www.rustiquerestaurants.co.uk