In Puglia, time has a different rhythm. One that follows the unhurried pace of village life, especially as we venture towards the warmer season and days are defined by long, sun-drenched afternoons and leisurely lunches and suppers. The south is where flavours deepen, and life revolves around the table with recipes passed down from generation to generation. The beauty of Puglia’s cuisine lies in its simplicity. It’s about sun-ripened tomatoes bursting with sweetness, creamy burrata so fresh it barely holds its shape, and handmade orecchiette pasta tossed with a sprinkle of seasonal greens and grated cacioricotta cheese. The region is also about convivial moments, grazing on crumbly tarallucci over an aperitif or tearing a chunk of bread from a rustic loaf to soak up the remnants of a slow-cooked sugo. Then there’s the bountiful land that gifts moments of joy, such as when you bite into jammy fist-sized figs growing wild in September, watching their golden nectar drip down your fingers. This is a region where food is rooted in tradition but never stuck in the past. While nonnas still knead dough in the streets of Bari and family-led restaurants still serve the same recipes for more than 50 years, a new wave of chefs is reimagining Puglia’s bounty with innovation, creative flair and a strong environmental philosophy. From humble trattorias helmed by tradition to Michelin-starred restaurants that push boundaries while prioritising locality and seasonality, these are the best restaurants in Puglia.
Taverna del Porto, Tricase
Down south, along the coast of Salento, lies the Taverna del Porto, which effortlessly exceeds expectations. There are no unnecessary frills; rustic repurposed tables and chairs and paper placemats complete the rustic, beach-style interiors. Whether by day or night, the setting is nothing short of charming; during the day, windows frame the 50 shades of blue, an unbeatable backdrop for savouring fresh seafood (be sure to book a table on the first-floor terrace for the best views). As the evening looms, lights dim down and candles flicker, creating the ultimate, intimate atmosphere. Taverna del Porto is one of the first restaurants in Puglia to completely embrace contemporary style dishes, while serving fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Each detail is exquisite, from the home-baked bread basket through to the final mouthful of dessert (the lemon meringue tart is always a winner). For the full experience, we suggest sharing a few starters, including la Pizzetta del Marinaio (a puff-pastry pizzetta with Octopus) and Pane, Pomodoro e Alici di Mario (toasted bread with tomato and anchovy). As for mains, the daily specials are great but the Gran Fritto is one of the best in the region.
Address: Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 121, 73039 Tricase Porto LE
Website: tavernadelporto.com
Osteria da Giuseppe
This is your typical, casareccio (home-style) restaurant located in the small town of Ceglie Messapica where Giuseppe and his team deliver an incredibly simple but authentic experience. Interiors are unpretentious, while the cuisine is no short of deliciousness. Dishes, served on the typical Grottaglie ceramics, come pouring out of the kitchen with a generous selection of antipasti such as meatballs (one of their signatures), local cheeses and cured meats. As for mains, besides the classics, all daily specials are scribbled up on the blackboard. Favourites include the orecchiette with sugo di braciola (a slow-cooked, meaty tomato sauce) and arrosto misto (a mixed grill of local meats), while for the more adventurous, the stewed donkey offers a taste of Puglia’s rustic and historical culinary traditions. Just before the bill, end the evening with a shot of homemade liqueur, it’s all part of the Italian experience.