Beverage director Sean Doolan took the cocktail list in a less obvious direction, splitting the 14 drinks into categories named for personality traits he associates with Argentines and Italians: sassy, classy, spritzy, and messy (the latter isn’t a slight but rather a bit of wordplay referring to Argentine footballer Lionel Messi). The Refreshing Negroni (gin, Luxardo aperitivo, lemon, green grape, sparkling rosé) lacks the classic cocktail’s typical bitter tones, which Doolan says is part of an effort to please Marina locals, who tend to be a Red Bull-vodka kind of crowd, Doolan says. The Life’s a Beach (tequila, hibiscus, citrus, egg white, bitters) delivers with floral sweetness and just a bit of foamy tang.
For those who once bellied up to the Dorian bar for late-night espresso martinis, the renovated restaurant will be nearly unrecognizable. Wu placed Morella’s bar against one wall and filled the spacious room with frilly palms, velvet-wrapped booths, and a dizzying array of patterned wallpaper. A trompe l’oeil atrium mural lends the space an airy, outdoorsy feeling, making it almost possible to pretend you’re enjoying dinner in a tropical plaza. The pastel palette echoes old Buenos Aires; faux dwarf lemon trees nod to the Italian coast. But when the doors swing open and a cold wind whips in from the street, you’ll know you’re right here in San Francisco.