The year was 2009: Kevin Rudd was PM, Obama had just been inaugurated for his first term and Andre Ursini was appearing on the very first season of Masterchef.
Since then, he’s gone on to be extraordinarily successful. He’s launched five South Australian venues: Andre’s Cucina & Polenta Bar, Orso, Wilmott’s Gastronomia, Lost Phoenix Farm and Viletta Porcini.
Sixteen years since his first appearance, Ursini is back competing on Masterchef Australia: Back To Win. Broadsheet spoke to Ursini to find out where (and what) he’s been eating in Adelaide.
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Why is Adelaide’s food and drink scene so underrated?
Adelaide has long been celebrated for its world-class wine regions, but in the ’90s, the state experienced something of a culinary lull. The food scene has undergone a remarkable transformation since then, evolving rapidly to complement the exceptional wines produced here.
Our city is enriched by a vibrant, multicultural community whose diverse culinary traditions have helped shape and elevate the food landscape over many decades. We owe them a lot!
South Australia also enjoys unmatched access to premium local produce and boasts a wealth of outstanding regional food and wine destinations. Add to that a new generation of passionate, creative hospitality professionals who aren’t afraid to take risks, and it’s easy to see why Adelaide is fast becoming one of Australia’s most exciting dining destinations.
What’s your favourite dish at one of your venues and why?
My all-time favourite dish is actually a creation by Orso’s head chef, Joel Tisato: the house maccheroni with musetto sausage and fennel bravada. It’s the perfect pasta dish. After all, life’s too short for bad pasta!
What’s your go-to for a quick takeaway?
Right next door to my restaurant Orso is Wilmott’s Gastronomia, a small but impressive venue offering restaurant-quality heat-and-eat meals, dine-in options, and elevated takeaway. While you’re waiting for your food, you can enjoy a cocktail or a cold beer. It’s a clever and delicious neighbourhood spot that’s doing things really well.
If it’s a special occasion, where are you headed?
Mensa is one of Adelaide’s newest gems, led by one of Australia’s great Italian chefs, Eugenio Maiale. The food is exceptional, but it’s the complete experience that sets it apart.
Where do you go for a long lunch?
Patch, up in the beautiful Adelaide Hills, is something special. After years of opening and running some of Adelaide’s top restaurants – and mentoring countless young chefs along the way – [Andrew Davies]’s chosen to spend this chapter of his culinary journey tucked away in the Hills. That said, he’s far from finished; he jokes that he’s still got another hundred years of cooking left in him!
Is there a hidden gem that you think is underrated but great?
The Almond Door in Willunga is a hidden gem. It’s a hi-fi bar and jazz cafe offering a curated selection of both international and local wines. While it’s not exactly underrated, it’s definitely flying under the radar. Owned and run by international musician Surahn [Sidhu] and his wife Jess [Sidhu], it has a truly unique vibe. Every Friday night, Surahn spins vinyl, performs a few of his own songs, and serves up a deeply personal dish: a special biryani made from a cherished family recipe.
What’s your favourite spot for a late-night feed?
Rostrevor Pizzeria is one of Adelaide’s most iconic late-night institutions. Since 1988, the Lepore family has been serving up classic, old-school pizza from a small spot in the heart of Rostrevor. Step inside any night of the week and you’ll likely meet the whole family. It genuinely feels like you’ve walked into their lounge room, with the warmth, energy and hospitality to match.
If you had a chef friend visiting from out of town, where would you tell them to go and why?
Coriole in McLaren Vale is a standout destination. It’s known for its brilliant wines, stunning location and exciting restaurant offering. At the heart of the kitchen is Patty Streckfuss, a remarkably talented young chef who’s creating food that’s every bit as memorable as the wine and the view.
What’s your favourite kitchen utensil in your kitchen and why?
My Japanese bronze fish scaler. It’s so precise and gentle; it feels like giving the fish a day spa treatment while you’re scaling it. It glides over the skin, massaging rather than tearing, and makes the whole process feel almost therapeutic.
What’s your favourite kitchen appliance at home and why?
I love my Vitamix. Whether you’re handing it over to the kids for their daily smoothie experiments or using it yourself to whip up gourmet dishes, it’s safe and simple enough for my kids to operate, which is perfect for encouraging creativity in the kitchen.
@andreursinicooks
@orsokensington
@vporcini
@lostphoenixfarm
Andre Ursini appears on Masterchef Australia: Back to Win, which continues Sunday at 7pm, and Monday to Wednesday at 7:30pm on 10 and 10 Play.