If it weren’t for the assurance of Mariah Carey loudly telling everyone in the room that they are, indeed, all she wants for Christmas, you could easily slip into another decade during dinner at Tosca Cafe. The North Beach Italian restaurant is over 100 years old, and its main appeal is its old-school scene.
Couples snuggle on slightly worn maroon leather booths and friend groups cram around almost-too-small tables, ordering another round of drinks while they admire the vintage jukebox and piano. You’ll hear neighborhood regulars recommending their favorite dishes to tourists who have just wandered in. But take it from us: Tosca Cafe’s entrees are mostly skippable, so focus instead on the appetizers and pastas. You’ll be happy enough digging around for the crunchiest chunk of bread in a spicy panzanella by candlelight, and slurping noodles from a plate of quickly congealing bucatini under a mural of men in fedoras.
The long wooden bar usually always has free seats. So post up with a glass of wine or the house cappuccino that’s basically hot chocolate with cognac. And when you need solids, you can always order some passable salmon.
Food RundownPanzanella
This salad is herby and tart, with a bit of bite. Some of the croutons arrive already sogged, but we still enjoy it and you will too.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Focaccia
Crusty and chewy, but bland. The pesto and butter served alongside help a little, but unless you’re bread-deficient for the day, we’d suggest skipping.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Bucatini
A satisfying dish to order with someone who won’t mind a lull in conversation—because your mouths should be fixed on eating the pasta before it solidifies. Long strands of cheese and caramelized bits guest star on every forkful.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Chicken Parmesan
Flavorless and a tad rubbery. Get another pasta instead.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Seared Salmon
For anyone searching for something lighter, this is a good choice. It’s bright and acidic. You’ll forget about it as soon as you leave the glow of the candelabra chandeliers, but it’s the most reliably consistent of the entrees.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Crispy Potatoes
This side only lives up to half of its name. A dunk in watery salsa verde doesn’t help either.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
House Tiramisu
Good and easy to share. If you’re not willing to walk the incline to another North Beach bakery for dessert, order this.
photo credit: Patrick Wong