Industry experts question if there is room for more than one notable red grape from this South American powerhouse.
© Bruno Pereira da Silva / Shutterstock | Argentina boasts some of the most dramatic vineyards in the world with the majestic Andes forming the backdrop.
When I first went to Mendoza in 2000, I was stunned by the longevity of some of the region’s Malbecs. It was also impressive how well their black fruit, spicy flavors and lush tannins synergized with big hunks of meat grilled over grapevines.
No one makes meat like the Argentines: in terms of both flavor and show, so this country has long had a tradition of producing intense reds to go with every piece of the cow imaginable. Residents here were also raised on Malbec, from a young age, and their devotion to it is strong. So, it’s no surprise that producers, and marketers, have brought their passion for this red grape to both the domestic and export markets.
No disrespect to Malbec intended, but I wonder if the Argentines are doing themselves any favors by literally putting all their grapes in one basket named Malbec. Especially when there are so many other solid reds – such as Bonarda and Cabernet Franc – which might allow this massive and competitively priced, wine-producing country to be fruitfully engaged in the sale of other red wines.
I have long thought that Argentine Cabernet Franc and Bonardas, along with some of the red blends, can be more subtle and elegant on their own and with food. Although encouraging dozens of producers to embrace, produce and sell them certainly makes for a more complex marketing agenda than the current primarily one-grape focus.
The benefit of blends
Field blends continue to be challenging to market in Anglo countries. When I imported Portuguese wines 20 years ago I begged producers in Portugal’s Douro Valley to give me an exact varietal breakdown of what was in their reds and they laughed. Then they asked me if I wanted them to outright lie on the label.
Americans have long wanted to know the exact components of their wines, as it seems many Argentines do as well. However, I remain a strong fan of blends – not only because they give winemakers more wiggle room to make the best wines possible from harvest to harvest – but because they can hit unique high notes from an estate or producer.
One of the better red blends I enjoyed on this trip was Paul Hobbs’ blend 2021 Cocodrilo, which is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon mixed with Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Its notes of black fruits and lush full body make it a great food wine. It sells for approximately $30 a bottle according to wine-searcher.com.
The land of Malbec
Argentina’s grape growers and winemakers have long focused on promoting Malbec on the international stage. According to the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America (WSWA) SipSource data – which tracks aggregated distributor depletion data for wine across all 50 states – Malbecs represent 87 percent of all Argentine reds produced.
Reds remain the key export wines made in Argentina. Red table wines also represent 73 percent of all wine volume from Argentina, sold in the US; and 80 percent of dollar volume, according to SipSource.
According to the raw data, producers’ focus on a one-horse pony grape does not seem to be paying off. “The value of Argentina’s wine exports to the US have dropped by almost 50 percent over the last 12 years; [and] by volume they have fallen by more than 50 percent,” shares Karl Storchmann, a clinical professor of economics at New York University. No doubt that the general concern about tariffs on imported wine has also dealt a blow to the category.
The percentage of Malbec produced in Argentina also continues to grow, despite a loss in volume. Professor Storchmann adds that, “Malbec accounts for approximately 23 percent of Argentina’s vineyard area, up from 4.6 percent in 1995.”
Malbec is grown in 17 different wine regions in Argentina, according to the Mendoza-based National Institute of Viticulture (INV). Malbec plantings across the country increased by 22 percent between 2014 and 2023, according to INV. This makes Argentina home to even more Malbec than France, where it is grown in Cahors, Bordeaux and even the Loire Valley.
Some in the industry even believe that the focus on the Malbec grape was not methodical and that it was chosen somewhat randomly. According to Dan Perlman, the American owner and chef of Casa Salt Shaker – a restaurant that functions in his home in Buenos Aires – Malbec has monopolized the market because of inertia. “A few wine writers got together and declared it Argentina’s grape,” he concludes.
© VDB Photos / Shutterstock | Argentina has the potential to produce a wealth of excellent reds beyond Malbec. Tradition reigns
Culture, in a winemaking country that dates to the early sixteenth century, takes time to evolve. “Argentina’s exports have grown under the tutelage of Malbec. Malbec is in people’s minds; it’s a registered trademark associated with the place: Argentina. Linked to this, and speaking fully of the grape variety, Malbec allows us to speak about those places,” according to Dulce Long, the food and beverage outlet manager and head sommelier, at the Four Seasons Buenos Aires.
She adds that Malbec is genuinely part of the Argentine culinary DNA, “just like tango and assado.” She also notes that these wines speak of soil and places. It’s something that is very clear visiting some of the top growing areas in the region of Mendoza where micro parcels are defined by their soil conditions and altitude.”
The grape also tends to show off Argentine’s different terroirs well. “The Malbec variety is very adaptable and has settled very well in the different climates and regions of our country, which is large and has very different terroirs,” notes Santiago Mymicoulo, the owner of Casa Coupage: a restaurant he runs in his home in Buenos Aires, with a focus on modern Argentine food and blind tasting.
He adds that the Malbec grapes’ flexibility has also been key when it comes to producing a wide range of wines. “When it comes to winemaking, that adaptability is also evident in the enological processes, which have allowed our producers to adapt the styles to different palates. That’s why you find such different styles of Malbec.”
It also doesn’t hurt that the country has the market cornered in terms of producing the most Malbec of any country in the world. “Argentina went out to sell the world a variety without having to compete with other producing countries. All it took was telling a convincing story and adding some marketing,” shares Mymicoulo.
Evolution or revolution
But progress is being made. Magdalena Pesce, the director of the Mendoza-based Wines of Argentina notes that, “Argentina’s red varietal landscape is evolving. While Malbec remains a primary focus, we observe a strategic emphasis on diversifying and showcasing regional expression through a broader selection of red grapes.”
Perlman, of Casa Salt Shaker, agrees. He adds that some of the most promising newcomers are Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, as well as Bonarda.
There seem to be real hopes for Bonarda to emerge as a unique red Argentine wine style, as it is the second most-planted red grape variety in Argentina, according to INV. The grape is grown in 15 provinces in Argentina and accounts for 8.4 percent of the country’s vineyards.
Pesce adds that increased interest in Bonarda “originates from its approachable fruit profile, versatility in winemaking and consumer value.” She also sees a bright road ahead for Cabernet Franc. She adds that it is, “also gaining recognition for its quality and suitability to Argentine growing conditions, as demonstrated by increased plantings and positive reception from the market.”
Julia Zuccardi, head of tourism and hospitality at Bodega Santa Julia – Zuccardi’s second label – and the Zuccardi Valle de Uco winery, is also a fan of the grape. She says that Bonarda is an elegant and refined varietal. The winery produces a lean and elegant 2023 Familia Zuccardi ‘Zuccardi Serie A’ Bonarda, made from 100 percent Bonarda, priced at $15 in a handful of markets in the States, according to wine-searcher.com.
However, she cautions that, “markets aren’t ready for Bonarda as it is a varietal that not everyone understands.” She adds that it also doesn’t make massive wines, which for me – on the other hand – is truly part of its appeal.
While producers seem to be showing more interest in Cabernet Franc, several producers during my trip questioned if the grape was just trendy with the wine trade. Cabernet Franc still sits at a lowly 0.98 percent of grape share in the country, according to Wines of Argentina.
With the country’s winemakers’ renewed focus on terroir and varietal diversity, many of us – Argentines and those who love their wines – hold out hopes for greater red wine grape diversity in the country’s future. A true variety of red wine styles would simply better reflect a country with so many winemaking influences and a lengthy winemaking history.
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