When the final four contestants of Top Chef Season 22 landed in Milan for the semifinals and finale, it became clear just how dynamic the city’s food scene truly is.
“I think for a long time, people dismissed it as an industrial city, where fashion happened, but not necessarily a place where you spent a lot of time if you didn’t work there,” Top Chef judge Gail Simmons told Food & Wine. “But I was struck by how cool it was. I thought it was magnificently beautiful and easy to walk in and really, really chic.”
Chef Andrea Aprea, a guest judge on the penultimate episode and chef-owner of the two-Michelin-star namesake restaurant, agreed. Aprea has lived in Milan for 15 years and says the city has undergone a dramatic transformation since Expo 2015. “There’s been an extraordinary growth in the city, in terms of tourism, in terms of the quantity and the quality of restaurants,” he said.
And they’re both ready to prove it. From high-end tasting menus to natural wine bars buzzing with locals, here are Simmons’ and Aprea’s favorite spots to eat and drink in Milan.
Ristorante Ratanà
Both Simmons and Aprea are big fans of Ratanà, where chef (and owner) Cesare Battisti’s ingredient-driven approach to Milanese cuisine offers a fresh take on the city’s culinary traditions.
“I would say there were three memorable meals we had, and one was at Ratanà,” Simmons said. “It’s a fantastic restaurant, a little outside of the core of the city, in a beautiful park, and it was truly excellent. We had a risotto with hazelnuts, and we had this amazing grape focaccia and blue cheese or gorgonzola sandwich that was delicious.”
Bu:r
For modern fine dining in an intimate setting, Aprea recommended Bu:r. “Eugenio Boer is a Dutch-Italian guy, and he’s doing a very great job with herbs, and he’s doing a great job on some historical dishes with a Nordic twist,” he says. “It’s a very small place with six tables. It’s very intimate.”
Langosteria
Seafood lovers, take note: Simmons said Langosteria served “one of the best, most memorable meals I’ve had in a long time.” The restaurant group by Enrico Buonocore has four locations in Milan: the original Langosteria, Langosteria Cucina, Langosteria Bistrot, and Langosteria Café.
“They’re crowded and boisterous. There are white tablecloths, but it is by no means pretentious. It didn’t feel like fussy food. It was really delicious,” Simmons says, adding that each is “a little whimsical.”
Capuano’s
“I have a very high standard because I like traditional pizza,” Aprea, who grew up in Naples, the birthplace of pizza, shared. His go-to spot for a good pie in Milan? Capuano’s. “The owner has three or four pizzerias around. It’s like the pizza that I used to eat in Naples when I was young.”
Trattoria Trippa
Simmons recalled a memorable meal at Trippa, a trattoria run by chef Diego Rossi, who doesn’t shy away from offal (a dish made of organ meat) on the menu. “It came recommended by so many chefs I spoke to before I left,” she says, explaining that she expected something grand but was pleasantly surprised by how casual and simple it was. “They’re famous for their fried tripe, but we also had amazing fresh pastas and beautiful desserts, and so that was a really great meal.”
Ernst Knam
For something sweet, Aprea recommended the pasticceria by Ernst Knam, a renowned pastry chef lovingly known as the “King of Chocolate.” Originally from Germany, Knam trained under Gualtiero Marchesi, often credited as the father of contemporary Italian cuisine. Knam’s Milan pastry shop emphasizes seasonality with inventive combinations of fruit and spice, along with chocolate imported from Peru.
Røst
“It’s casual with a cool vibe,” Simmons said of her lunch at Røst. This low-key spot blends Italian flavors with a minimalist, down-home aesthetic, all a quick walk from the famed Villa Necchi Campiglio museum. “I remember having arancini that were really delicious. And it was Italian, but I feel like it had almost Scandinavian overtones.”
LùBar
This casual bistro is run by a Sicilian family, who infuse the Mediterranean flavors of the island into every bite. “It’s in the courtyard of the contemporary art museum, and it feels like you’re in a garden, sort of at a tea party, indoor and out,” Simmons says. “We sat outside and it was lovely. We had beautiful sandwiches, cheeses, charcuterie, and an artichoke salad.”
Ceresio 7
“Ceresio 7 is this beautiful terrace with two swimming pools,” Aprea says. Perched atop a building with panoramic views, the rooftop bar is the perfect spot for an aperitivo. “The owners are very good friends of mine and I go when I finish early in the evening, even for half an hour for a drink. You see a beautiful sunset because it’s on top of the building.”
N’Ombra de Vin
N’Ombra de Vin, a historic wine bar in the chic Brera neighborhood, dates back to the 15th century. It may be old, but it’s not tired, and that’s thanks to its second-generation owner, Cristiano Cora, who has injected the place with a fun, youthful energy. “It was so much fun, just teeming with people pouring out onto the streets, sitting out on the street drinking wine,” Simmons says. “And then they have a beautiful salumeria downstairs, so you can get great charcuterie and cheeses.”