You might remember the De Leon family as one of Portland’s most beloved names in Mexican food. Now, Lucy De Leon — the daughter of the founders of Tortilleria y Tienda De Leon’s and owner of La Patroncita and Salsas Locas — is expanding into downtown Portland with a brand-new restaurant.
While some business owners have shied away from opening a storefront in downtown Portland, De Leon is leaning in. Backed by years of success running popular Mexican eateries in the city, she hopes to find a market for her latest restaurant concept, Madrina Cocina Mexicana.
“I literally said, ‘God, if it’s for me, give it to me. If it’s not — if it’s going to be something that’s going to make me stumble — take it from me, I don’t want it,” Lucy De Leon said. “So obviously, it is for me.”
With Madrina Cocina Mexicana, expected to open in August, De Leon hopes to bring a warm embrace to downtown Portland through traditional Mexican dishes such as tacos al pastor, pollo rostizado, quesabirrias and carnitas. The protection and support of godmothers was the inspiration for Lucy De Leon’s new venture.
“Madrina means godmother,” De Leon said. “I love to empower women…. And that’s why we chose madrina because I feel like a madrina is always trying to help others and serve others.”
Born in Texas to immigrant parents from Tamaulipas, Mexico, De Leon spent her childhood traveling across the country as her family followed seasonal farmwork. In 1999, while De Leon was studying at Portland State University, her parents opened Tortilleria y Tienda De Leon’s on the Portland-Gresham border, and the Northeast Glisan Street space became a local favorite for carnitas, chile rellenos and fresh tortillas.
Tortilleria y Tienda de Leon was located at 16223 NE Glisan Street.Stephanie Yao Long
De Leon paused her education to help run the business and eventually became CEO of Tortilleria y Tienda De Leon’s after her parents, Anselmo and Francisca De Leon, retired during the pandemic. The grocery and tortilleria moved to Southeast Portland in 2022 and was rebranded as Salsas Locas, a Mexican restaurant. Salsas Locas ditched the market but has remained a favorite Mexican eatery known for its outdoor seating, tacos, burritos and tamales.
De Leon rebranded her family’s longtime tortilleria into Salsas Locas in 2022 — now a popular Southeast Portland spot for tacos, burritos and outdoor dining. Photo courtesy of Carter Hiyama/Salsas Locas.Carter Hiyama
In 2023, De Leon opened La Patroncita, a bar and lounge with colorful decor, pink tortillas and a rotating cocktail menu. De Leon also oversees wholesale production of Salsas Locas burritos, chips and salsa, which can be found in local shops including New Seasons and Market of Choice.
La Patroncita, De Leon’s vibrant Southeast Portland bar and lounge, is known for its pink tortillas, colorful décor and rotating cocktail menu. Photo courtesy of Carter Hiyama/La Patroncita.Carter Hiyama
Madrina Cocina is setting up shop at 1237 S.W. Jefferson St., in the former space of Japanese restaurant Chef Naoko. Nestled between Lincoln High School and Portland State University and directly across from the Consulate General of Mexico, the spot is ideal for attracting students, downtown workers and consulate visitors, De Leon said.
Madrina Cocina Mexicana will open in the former Chef Naoko space near Lincoln High School and PSU — a prime location for students and downtown visitors.Chiara Profenna
Despite being advised by many people not to open a business downtown, De Leon trusted her instincts and chose to become part of what she sees as the transformation of the city’s core.
“This was an opportunity that I couldn’t let go,” De Leon said. “I went to Portland State, and I’ve always loved downtown. … I see myself here, and I really can see this being such a huge benefit to downtown and our community.”
Bathed in vibrant blue and orange hues, the space will be a family-friendly restaurant on one side and a mercadito (small market), selling lunch dishes and snacks, on the other. The restaurant will incorporate popular dishes from Salsas Locas alongside new offerings, like De Leon’s family recipe for pollo rostizado (roasted chicken).
The interior of Madrina Cocina begins to take shape at 1237 S.W. Jefferson St.Chiara Profenna
Although De Leon’s parents are now fully retired and living in Spokane, Washington, they’re sharing their beloved family recipes for the new restaurant and plan to join their daughter for the grand opening.
“The pollo rostizado is something that I’ve grown up with,” De Leon said. “Dad would always be making them in the oven… I’m just really excited to bring that back, because we used to make it back on Glisan, and now we don’t anymore.”
Other menu items include elote on the cob, blue corn tortillas, fish tacos, buñuelos (fried dough covered in cinnamon sugar) and a selection of Latina-owned wines, ciders and beers.
Carnitas with nopalitos from Tortilleria y Tienda de Leon in 2020.The Oregonian
“It’ll be all about spotlighting and highlighting those Latina owned businesses,” said Lucy Winn, interior designer for La Patroncita and Madrina Cocina. “We want to bring them to these spaces downtown where they’re gonna have the same exposure that Lucy is gonna have for her food.”
Empowering women is at the center of De Leon’s vision and it is incorporated into every element of the space, including the artwork, which will be completed by De Leon’s nephew, Mario De Leon Jr.
“It’s gonna be something with a lot of flowers, there’s gonna be some strong portraiture in there, something to really show women empowerment,” Mario De Leon Jr. said of the murals he plans to complete. “I have two daughters and one thing that I like to show them is that you can work for yourself. And one example that I have is my aunt.”
Lucy De Leon hopes that visitors to the new space will be able to enjoy themselves and feel safe in the community Madrina Cocina will foster.
“There’s so much going on around the world,” De Leon said. “Here you’re coming to taste nuestra cultura (our culture) and we make everything con amor (with love).”
Madrina Cocina is expected to open in late August at 1237 S.W. Jefferson St. Until then, Salsas Locas is serving tacos, burritos and tamales at 4512 S.E. 28th Ave., 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday and 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday, and La Patroncita is offering nachos, enchiladas, tacos and a full cocktail menu at 2832 S.E. Belmont St., 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Friday-Saturday.
— Chiara Profenna covers religion, faith and cultural connections. Reach her at 503-221-4327; cprofenna@oregonian.com or @chiaraprofenna.
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