Since time immemorial, the vast saltwater lagoon of Venice and the Adriatic beyond have provided fresh supplies for the city’s homes and restaurants. A visit to the Grand Canal-side fish market, under its splendid neo-Gothic arches, provides a slippery, writhing introduction to moeche (soft-shelled crabs), schie (tiny grey shrimps), capelunghe (razor clams) and other wondrous marine creatures.
Seafood is the foundation of the city’s cuisine, but it’s not the whole story. There’s a healthy heritage of meat dishes from the Venetian hinterland, and vegetables from the lagoon islands are a fixture (the exquisite castraure artichoke hearts from Sant’Eramo being the most famous). In recent years, a consortium of Venetian restaurants has taken this to the next level, collaborating in the Osti in Orte project to grow organic produce which makes its way direct to their hungry guests’ plates.
Where to find these local delights? Of course, in such a heavily touristed city, plenty of venues serve sub-standard fare to transient hordes. But real dedication to excellent cuisine, with a respect for tradition and an eye for the new, is rife among Venetians. If you know where to go, you’ll eat very well indeed in the lagoon city. Here’s our selection of favourite restaurants in Venice, from Michelin starred to local trattorias.
Dai Tosi
There are times when nothing hits the spot better than a pizza, and neighbourhood trattoria-pizzeria Dai Tosi provides. It’s a no-frills kind of place, and the setting is pure residential Venice, with washing strung between high apartment blocks and locals shouting greetings as they pass. Kids will love the freedom of running up and down the uncrowded calle between courses. There are traditional Venetian trattoria dishes, plus a vast selection of pizzas, including plenty of vegetarian options. Beware – there are two locales with similar names in the area: this one is at number 738.
Address: Dai Tosi, Castello 738, calle seco Marina, Venice.
Website: trattoriadaitosi.it
Orient Experience
It is (just) possible to tire of Venetian fare, in which case Orient Experience offers an excellent break. The creation of a one-time refugee and staffed by migrants, this cheerful restaurant in the northern Canareggio district serves a changing menu of north African and Middle Eastern dishes which call to mind Venice’s dominant role in the global spice trade over many centuries. You can eat in, take away, or arrange delivery. There’s another branch in student-packed campo Santa Margherita.
Address: Orient Experience, Canareggio 1847, rio terà Farsetti, Venice.
Website: orientexperience.it
Ristorante LocalGarage Raw
Ristorante Local
Unusually spacious and painted in shades of lagoon blue, Michelin-starred Local is what it says: the decor incorporates local crafts (including thousands of coloured glass beads laid into the floor) and the kitchen brims with exquisitely fresh local produce, sourced from the area and made into dishes which riff on tradition while adding new twists and the occasional fusion element. In the open kitchen, chef Salvatore Sodano prepares dishes for seven- or nine-course set menus, which might include rice with razor clams or Venetian squid cooked in its own ink. The kitchen is always happy to accommodate for allergies; service is welcoming and professional and the wine list is expertly curated.