I took what I deemed to be a "risk" with this wine. At €58, this would be the upper limit of my spending on a single bottle; I paid a similar amount for Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto, but that purchase did not feel risky at all, as I knew it fit within a flavour profile I already enjoyed. Despite hearing so much hype around this producer, it felt as though I was taking a punt on this lighter style of Garnacha, from the hilly, rocky soils of Gredos, outside Madrid.
The naming scheme of the Comado G follows a similar pattern as that seen in Burgundy: village and vineyard (ie, Navatalgordo, or Rozas Premier Cru), and it seems as though Comando G treats Garnacha as if it is Pinot Noir. It drinks as such too.
This is very much a "food wine".
Opened for an hour before drinking, the first glass was without food, and it tasted dull, flat and astringent.
Nose: At 14% ABV, the alcohol does feel very present at first. This settled dramatically after 2 hours.
Colour: Medium Ruby, pours not unlike water, medium body.
Taste: cranberry, raspberry, mineral/slate. It has a pleasant "freshness" and a reasonably lasting, tannic finish. Quite high acidity.
At the wine shop I bought this in, I asked if it should be decanted beforehand, I was told it wasn't necessary, but rather to open 1-2 hours in advance. Personally, I would decant – when you see this develop in the glass over 2-3 hours, you realise air is such an important ingredient for this wine.
I found this difficult to score, the beautiful Spanish/Burdundian bouquet gave me nothing on the palate to begin with, but opened up so much eventually that I would give it upwards of 91 points…just give it plenty of time to breathe.
by dtuohy2
3 Comments
I’ve been steadily disappointed by the last few vintages of Comando G, notable exception being Umbrias ‘21. And obviously the prices don’t help at all.
I tasted the ‘24 vintage a couple weeks ago and it’s more of the same unfortunately, in Gredos you’d be better off with Vinícola Mentridiana if you want a similar style or 4monos if you want something a little more lively.
From my experience, their wines definitely need air when they are young. I think that I aerated their 2021 La Bruja de Rozas for around 1 1/2 hours and then served it in a large Burgundy glass.
I tried a different vintage of this wine, and i found it took a looooooong time to open. It was austere, earthy, minerally, and quite stingy upon opening up. But once it was open, it was very nice, elegant, and enjoyable.
I see the appeal, but I don’t think it holds appeal for *me*. Plenty of complexity, but it just didn’t hold much appeal.