Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
My late father would be the person I credit with my love of wine. The moment itself? There’s a family photo of me as a young child taking a sip of his Champagne. I’m not sure I was quite old enough to remember what I was drinking, but I wouldn’t judge him too hard for serving Champagne in a coupe glass.
Describe your wine list at Sotto
Both a signpost and a weathervane, I think we strike a nice balance between introducing people to new things and educating them, and giving them what is familiar and popular. We have an eclectic and varied list that showcases all the most important appellations and varieties in Italy, as well as plenty of things you’ll likely be unfamiliar with.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I once tripped over and threw an entire tray of Espresso Martinis over a table of guests, and into the 2007 Soldera (a top producer within Tuscany’s Brunello di Montalcino DOCG) I had just decanted for them.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
The Palmerston, in Edinburgh. Never had a bottle there that wasn’t excellent, it’s such a well curated selection. The Black Swan in Oldstead, where they had every wine from a very extensive list available by the glass, and I’ll say the Drapers Arms in London where I always try and make a point of visiting when I’m down. I think everyone knows by now, but you can drink fabulous wines at amazing prices.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
We were lucky enough to host a showcase of Coravin at Sotto recently, with a group of the finest sommeliers in Scotland testing their palates. Greg Lambrecht, (who invented the wine preservation system) hosted the day and was a fascinating character. He had such insightful perspectives about everything, not just wine.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I’ll go with something I tasted today, a Schiava from the Alto-Adige by a good producer called Girlan. A grape I used to mistakenly think was a clone of Nebbiolo, it had a lot of the same characteristics; floral, herbaceous, savoury and grippy, but with a lightness from the high altitude terroir that made it so drinkable. Delicious.
What are some overused tasting notes?
Minerality is a term thrown around alot these days, I’m probably guilty of that myself. I should drink a glass of good Chablis to really remind myself of the sensation. Also ‘natty’ a lazy and meaningless term I try never to use when talking about orange wine.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
An Aglianico from Campania by a producer called De Concilis, for £46. It’s such a great grape to introduce people to because of the similarities with Cabernet Sauvignon, and this is a lighter expression that somehow retains all the ripe fruit and leathery tannins. Really elegant and complex.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Can I say a bacon roll and a glass of fresh orange?! If we’re doing wine, then Gorgonzola and Sauternes. I’ll probably get gout.
Old World or New World?
Spending a year in Australia working in a vineyard and in a wine bar changed my perspective on all that. We used to play a blind tasting every week at East End Cellars in Adelaide where all the staff and some regulars would bring a bottle, and the first question was always “Old World or New World?”. It’s amazing how often that isn’t immediately obvious, so why is it still such an important distinction.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
When the wine is kept off the table!
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Poppelvej, my brother in law’s winery in McLaren Vale. I have to plug them somewhere! But the wines are genuinely so well made and with such care, and are part of a cool group of modern producers in the South Australian wine industry.
What question do you most get asked by customers?
Why an Italian restaurant? I’ve always wanted to open a restaurant, since I was a child, but my fascination with Italy came through working with my best friends who have Italian restaurants in Edinburgh. I love the food, the wine and the importance they both have in the culture.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment
Sticking to what I know, I’ll pick an Italian region and say Trentino. I’m going to visit a producer there next month and have never been before, but there are so many interesting varieties and wines with amazing minerality (I told you…). Drinking good Pinot Grigio from the Alto-Adige changed my perception about the grape.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I’ve never had Romanée-Conti. I couldn’t go to the grave having never tried it.