Our restaurant critic finds some teething issues at a new Dublin Italian – but the food has promise
Aperitivo at the Cafe in Glasthule, Co Dublin
I’ve been reading Keith McNally’s spicy memoir I Regret Almost Everything. I mean ‘reading’ in the loose sense, as initially I embarked on the audiobook narrated by Richard E Grant only to find his delivery so irritating I ended up springing for the hardback half way through. I guess that makes me a dream ‘reader’ for any author.
McNally is a restaurateur (though he doesn’t like the word), or ‘The Restaurateur Who Invented Downtown’ per The New York Times. If you’ve ever eaten at Balthazar, Pastis, Minetta Tavern or Cafe Luxembourg, or made it past the velvet rope at Nell’s, you’ve been a customer.