Best Lisbon restaurant for: Inventive pork dishes
One thing you should know before visiting Portugal: pork, in all its forms, is a much-loved meat that makes up many classic dishes, from bifanas (a classic sandwich) to Leitão (suckling pig). Pigmeu is a true homage to this local love, using nose-to-tail cooking to create something sustainable, comforting and completely unique, bringing locals from across the city to indulge.
Inside, the vibe is immediately warm and welcoming; simple wooden tables and chairs fill the room, with shelves stacked with a wide variety of empty wine bottles – almost all of them Portuguese. But it’s the food that steals the show every time. It’s hard to tear yourself away from a menu that’s so creative, but I loved letting the passionate chefs choose what we should eat; and they didn’t hold back. We started with a couvert with lard, followed by what we, as British eaters, would describe as pork crackling. This might be simplifying the dish a little, since it was a million miles away from the packets served in pubs, but the snack was immediately familiar, if not far fresher and crispier than what we’re used to. Don’t miss the meaty croquettes served with a tangy mustard for dipping, or the moreish pork feet and bean stew. Daring diners will want to get stuck into dishes like the hearts and testicles, both of which are surprising and more than a little memorable.
Located in the trendy Campo do Orique neighbourhood, this is a restaurant that makes it worth hopping in a taxi from the centre of town. If you’re looking for a quick bite without going too far, there’s a second site – Pigmeu Da Ribeira – located in the Time Out Market. Whichever you drop into, be sure to lean on the expertise of the staff, and leave your prejudices behind.
Price range: ££
Where? Campo do Orique
Address: R. 4 de Infantaria 68, 1350-274 Lisboa, Portugal
Website: pigmeu.pt/
Should I book? Yes