Here, Emeril Lagasse shares a recipe for country captain, a curried chicken dish that’s a classic in the Southern U.S. Lagasse’s friend Sarah Etheridge says country captain chicken was often served at family gatherings and potluck dinners in her hometown of Columbus, Georgia. It’s fragrant, texturally varied (with crunchy almonds), and sweet-tart thanks to the inclusion of dried currants — and delicious served over white rice.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the history of country captain chicken?
The history is a little hazy, but this dish likely has some roots in Anglo-Indian cuisine: the cooking style that arose out of British colonialism in India and is also the origin of dishes like Western-style chutneys and kedgeree. Some version of country captain arrived in U.S. cities, likely via trade, in the 19th century; the first published American recipe dates to 1857, from a cookbook printed in Philadelphia. The modern version of the dish, however, was shaped in the South, where it has gained almost legendary status. Some associate it with President Franklin D. Roosevelt, who kept a home in Warm Springs, Georgia. Still others associate it with General George S. Patton, who served in Georgia at Fort Benning.
Why is it called “country captain”?
No one knows for sure, but there are a few theories. During British colonial occupation of India, “country” was used as an adjective to denote Indian (rather than British) origin; a “country captain” would then be an Indian military officer. In her 1857 cookbook, American author Eliza Leslie suggests that “Probably this dish was first introduced at English tables by a Sepoy [Indian infantry] officer,” though this is just one of many stories put forward over the years.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
For this recipe, Lagasse starts with two whole chickens and breaks them down himself. If you’d rather not spend time breaking down a chicken, you can ask the butcher to do it for you at the counter or just buy the cuts you like the best — about 7 pounds total.