TAIPEI (Taiwan News) – French bistro Bonami recently opened its doors next to the Taipei Fine Arts Museum.
Led by Michelin-starred chef Richie Lin (林泉), founder of the MMHG Hospitality Group, the collaboration is the first between MMHG and Alife Holdings, promising a fresh blend of art, architecture, and gastronomy.
At the heart of Bonami is Hong Kong-born Chef Percy Ho (何卓濠), whose culinary philosophy emphasizes approachable and shareable French dining. Recognizing Bonami’s proximity to exhibition spaces, Ho aims to create a relaxed, friendly atmosphere where guests can easily share meals, embodying the spirit of “bonami” (French for good friend).
Ho’s menu is designed with sharing as its core. He deviates from traditional French set menus, allowing diners to customize their experience by choosing salads, meats, and other dishes based on their preferences and group size.
The menu features a range of inventive touches. His Caesar salad, for instance, features whole romaine leaves, allowing guests to pull them apart or slice them for sharing. The pate de campagne, pickles, and mustard, a signature French dish, is meticulously crafted from chicken liver, minced pork, pork back fat, and spices, slow-baked and then wrapped in pork caul fat for a refined look and rich texture.
Ho highlighted his garlic butter escargots, a dish he believes Taiwanese diners should embrace despite initial reservations. He paired the escargots with homemade Italian puff pastry, garlic, and leeks, skillfully cooked to remove their pungency while retaining their aromatic essence and texture.
Recognizing local preferences, Ho said that some restaurants adjust flavors for the Taiwanese market. However, he insisted on maintaining the essence of his dishes, only making minor tweaks if they did not compromise the integrity of the cuisine.
“Good food should not be overly embellished. It should showcase the true nature of the ingredients,” said Ho.
Among Bonami’s signature offerings is the artichoke with garlic anchovy sauce, featuring slow-simmered artichoke hearts paired with a flavorful sauce. This elegant cold appetizer can be enjoyed by peeling the leaves or savoring the tender artichoke heart.
Bonami, with 42 seats, will initially open for dinner, promising to reinterpret dining within a museum setting and attract international travelers seeking a unique cultural and culinary experience in Taipei.
(Taiwan News, Lyla Liu video)